The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1937 radiators

I have decided to buy a new radiator for my truck. The one I have is a 10 year old re core of the original. The top tank keeps leaking at the seams, thin wall tank keeps flexing and cracking the solder at the seams even with a four pound cap.

Since I have the radiator mounted 2" lower in the frame to keep the fan from hitting the lower outlet, ( later model 250 ) I can go with a 2" taller then stock unit. Are the car radiator taller then trucks for the 37-38 years?

I have decided on the Afco brand because they look like a well made unit. #80147 or (car)#80144.

http://www.yogisinc.com/Detail.cfm/-/Product_CD=80147N/Category=3095/product.htm

http://www.yogisinc.com/Detail.cfm/-/Product_CD=80144N/Category=3078/product.htm

Has anyone used this brand?

Any thoughts before I spend?

Joe, I know about the leak at the top seam....and I run a 4lb cap. I don't know if you seen my earlier post "somewhere" about the aluminum radiator from Griffin that I want for my truck.

PROBLEM: I ordered it on line Saturday at 3:25. I called the folks today and they say they didn't receive the order and the one they had in stock was shipped to a guy in Florida yesterday. With my luck its a guy who saw my post and called them!!!!!

Anyway, its 18.75 X 25" core. It will fit in my 37 and since its 35% cooler than a copper and half as heavy it should be what I want. It is rated for up to a 400 hp chev small block.

I also know about the crooked neck on bottom. I ran a small flex fan and a pusher fan to keep it cool as I couldn't run a big fan on account of the high bend in the bottom neck.

NOW...heres MY problem. The radiator normally sales for 325 and was suppose to be on sale for 195 plus my shipping made it $211.
My wife just faxed a copy of the "bill" I printed out when I ordered it and the guy is suppose to call me back. He told me that they was out of stock but have some on back order. At that price, IF HE HONOR"S IT I will definitely wait.

The good thing about it is that I also wanted one with the tranny cooler in the bottom and this one has it.
The LOCAL shop wanted to twist my arm telling me material had gone up and it would cost me $542 for a new core and a bottom tank. (still using my top tank)...I said no way...material may have went up but it also came down!!!

I'm waiting on a call from the radiator place in N.Y. This is the radiator I'm talking about. If they don't honor the reduced price I may end up paying the $325 which is still cheaper than the other route....and to top it off Griffin is only about 25 miles down interstate from my house!
I had a friend at Greeenville tech who has a good relationship with them but he says they don't give much of a break off their prices which you cannot see on their website.

OK Joe, you probably didn't need all this but maybe it will help in some way???
Got to go. Almost time to get back on the big yellow bus and wait for a phone call from "Rob".

http://classicfordradiator.com/grif...diator25tallx1875wideforchevyengine.aspx

Alvin, I looked at that one, its a good brand and price. I found the Afco one for $419 so I think I will get it. I just don't see a future in fixing mine, I have fixed leaks every year I have had it! Joe

Joe, got my problem resolved. They were out of stock and the one I "thought" I ordered was sold to a guy in Florida. They apoligized and made me a nice deal anyway. I'm happy and the radiator will be here in a couple days....or Monday. They treated me nice.

my motto: look it up on line but call to order!!

Hey Guys, in the case of either of these radiators, what is done with the neck? Does it still come through the body "cross over" above the radiator, or do they do one of those necks that comes out of the back of the tank, offset to the right side?
Both deals sound good. I'd love to hear how they go in. Good luck!
Joe - 6cylindersovertexas

Joe, the aluminum I have coming is 25" tall. My old one is 28". The new one is just a little wider and the top is square and not rounding. I figure they will both hold the same amount.

To answer your question the aluminum one does NOT have the offset filler. I "might" have this moved but since its a bit shorter I may not need it? I also "think" they make a conversion neck that will cap on the radiator but stick out so you can fill it.....There is also a "inline" filler/cap that can be spliced into the top return hose and still look good. (Am I making sense)

I'm not sure about Joe H. I think his link showed it is made specifically for the 37. I'll have to look at his links again.
Since I'm modified so much it don't botter me to do this. I wish I had done it years ago.
NOTE: the one I had in the truck was a new core (2000) and has never given me trouble till now. It started leaking around the inside of the top tank seam. I think I'll get it repaired and sale it to someone with original needs. Back then I did have a neck put in the top of the original so I could run a pressure cap. Anyone going original this radiator would last them a life time! My nephew is working on a 37 and the guy just spent over 500 to get the original fixed. Our timing was just off or he could have gotten mine a lot less!!

I just couldn't see spending 500 clams...you know what I mean!!

Joe, the Afco radiator is direct replacement with the cap off to the right side on the rounded over top.

http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynate...Code=80147N&Category_Code=hr_rod-rad

It measures 18" wide X 23" tall.

Carshopinc.com sells them for $419 plus shipping.

I sure hope it works out!!!!

Joe

Wow, you are saying the filler neck and cap is in the stock position? I have to see PICTURES as soon as you get it installed! Please!

I have been working off and on since Friday afternoon getting the new radiator installed. Its built really well and looks just as good as the pictures. Its not a direct bolt in, but more of a universal truck radiator made to look like the originals. The side brackets are just a bit short and narrow, but some 1/8" X 2" flat steel made some nice wider and longer mounts.
The hoses are next. The top and bottom tubes come straight out pointing at the engine so I need to hit the parts store and sift through the hoses looking for some correct bends. Since I have a 250 the lower hose is going to be pretty tricky, the outlet is right below the timing cover so I am going to loop around the oil filter and come at the water pump from the side. I thought about capping the outlet and getting a 90 degree welded in but thats to much work, if this hoses doesn't work out I may have to get it changed.

All in all I pretty happy with it so far. I will keep you posted on the instulation..... Joe

Joe H, So, if you had not gone with the 4# cap would you have been ok with the old stock rad unit? I've been wary of adding a pressure cap on my 46 just for that reason and now that I'm adding AC, well I'll just have to wait and see how it goes.

My old radiator is out of a 2 ton truck, really thick and knock on wood, it's been great for almost 30 years.

Regards
Jim
Hey Also- YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST! Just in case I have not let you know by now.

It seems the problem is with the top tank being thin, so each heat cycle it went threw it would flex, and over time crack the solder joint. I can't blame it all on the radiator, the guys that recored it had to do the top tank twice because of leaks, but the front side of the top is really thin. It could be just a poor repair, but I have been sealing leaks for 5 or six years now. They are all ways at the top front seam, and leak just enough to get the firewall spotted and slick.

I would think with A/C and a no pressure system you might have cooling issues. You should consider a overflow tank so at least your coolant won't hit the pavement. It should return to the core once it cools down and the extra tank could be open to the atmosphere so you still have a zero pressure system.

Building a new top tank out of heavy brass would probably cure the problem of the flexing and pressure and wouldn't be to hard to make and get soldered on.

Joe

I must have been lucky Joe. Mine never leaked until recently after 9 years. As mentioned I used a 4lb on mine and I have ran the old 37 HARD on many occassions. But when it did start leaking it was the top tank and on the fan side.
Your right though about the flexing. A lot of times I could cut it off and hear the tanks popping as it first heated up and then cooled off. Most times I cut it off I would leave the electric fan on for a couple minutes which may have helped.
My aluminum should be here one day this coming week and I'll let you know how I make out.

Joe, I suspect having to add a little strip on the edge of my radiator to. Maybe a 3/4" strip. If so I'm just gonna lay the new one on top of the old one and make the strips and drill holes right so that I won't have to put this thing in but once.

Say, did you get yours out without taking the hood off?
I pulled fan off, pulled the top of the radiator back as I pulled up on it and it layed back right over the engine. Man, that thing wash heavy with the electric fan still on it and I did it by myself. (I"m getting to old for this!!!)

As an after thought I was hoping that the radiator shop could put new tanks on it....yeah right. Heck, I was going through their shelves of new tanks and they ignored me. Probably PO'd because I was doing that rather than just forking over $550!!

I pulled the hood, its hot hard with help and lets in a lot of light. The new radiator weighs nothing, I have had it in and out a dozen times looking and fitting. I had to mount it lower due to the outlets but now the fan blades pull through 90% of the core. This 250 really sets low making the fan really low.
I got it mounted last night and I am getting ready to cut hoses. Joe

Let us know how well it works. My new aluminum should be here Monday or Tuesday so hopefully, if I have time, I'll be back on the road testing mine this coming weekend.
My V8 sits lot to Joe so your not alone. I plan to drop mine down a couple inches to.
Hope yours goes well.

I have it all installed and running. It works really well with a 14 pound cap and 180 thermostat. The radiator core is thicker then the stock unit so I had a little trouble get it forward enough to clear the fan. I use a flat front flex fan, and at high rpm, the blades would flex forward and hit the radiator, lucky it was a weld! I rearranged the brackets and now have plenty of room.

Next project is to remove the temp gauge and send it out for some calibration. Its been reading high for years, but since I had a 160 thermostat I could live with it, the 180 now reads over in the red. I have a second gauge that read correct and confirms what my infrared gauge shows.

My lower radiator hose is pretty cool, it holds about a gallon of coolant! I had to go under the motor, back to the motor mount, loop up over the fuel pump, and around the distributor. I used a mandrel bent 1.5" exhaust pipe loop with some rubber mounted supports. I have a picture or two if someone could post them, I don't have a picture site, I'm to lazy!

I am real happy with the outcome, I feel now I can go across country and not worry about it. Now if I can get a oil leak fixed I am good to go!

Joe