The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Use Setting Tape or Silicone for vent glass

For guys who have actually done this.......
.....did you use glass setting tape or fill up the track for the wing vent glass with Silicone and stick the glass in... or RTV??
OR do you use a combination on each side of the tape??

I'm ready to assemble them but wondering what works nicely from the guys who have experience.

Also, is TODAYS glass setting tape like the old stuff where you put oil in the track so it will swell the tape once you have the glass in place.
I've read some different things that were considered and thoughts about what works but now want to hear about what works and LASTS.

Will be watchin this thread Alvin, I was in the shop today and opened the passengers vent window so I could get a grip on the door and as soon as I rotated the vent window closure I heard a Clink...and low an behold the glass cracked!...apparently between the new vent window gasket and closures somethin is WAY TO TIGHT!....so Ill be pullin that door back apart.
Its always somethin....lol
Tim
P.S. how goes the assembly on your panel ??

I installed auto glass for 15 years.

Make sure the vent channel is clean and clear of rust. If you just painted it, wait for it to be completely dry. Use 1/4 X 1/8 rectangular butyl tape to form an adhesive strip within the vent channel.

While we would use automotive urethane adhesive for the finger bead seal, RTV would work [although the gasses from curing may encourage rust, and the silicone would pollute the surface for other adhesives}

Apply a fine bead of sealant and dress with a single edge razor blade. If you simply bevel the edge with the razor and leave the excess on the glass, you can come back after it cures and slice it off easily. Wipe any sealant off the channel while raw.

Alvin,

If you want a quick, sure, and strong seal, the modern sealant route is probably the better method.

If you want to go the original route, original-style tape is still available and the removal/installation techniques are described in Shop Manuals (they worked for me). The main problems that people have when using original tape (using the original installation technique) is that glass thicknesses vary and tape thicknesses vary. No knowledgeable vendor will assure you that their tape will work with your glass - they might be able to sell you the correct tape if you buy the glass from them (but even this route has failed me).

Restoration Specialties, Inc. sells glass setting tape in the original composition (and in a more modern composition) in a variety of thicknesses.

After buying and using a variety of thicknesses of tapes, and using them on side windows, vent windows, and Suburban rear-side windows, I have only had one loose fit - on a vent window. A vent window glass has to have a very tight fit because the frame gets pulled down when you tighten the "spring-loaded tension" nut at the bottom of the vent-pane-frame (inside the door).

Tim

I am restoring my 1950 cabover and decided to go with setting tape and here's why.

The door windows have the metal channel that goes all the way around the glass. I used kerosene to soften the setting tape which appeared to be the original. I painted it with a brush for several hours. Then I used a heat gun. The glass came out of the channel reasonably easy, and most importantly, the metal channel was undamaged.

As I pondered the present question, it ocurred to me that if modern adhesives were used, and I needed to change out a cracked glass pane in the future, it might be difficult to dissassemble without damaging that metal channel.

I "interviewed" a local glass shop owner and he seemed very willing to find the right thickness tape, to make it work, so I gave him the project and am waiting to see how it will come out.

Thanks to all who replied. Right now I think I will use the setting tape and see how it goes in. If it acts to tight I'll pull it back out and use a good layer of silicone all the way around the wing vent.
If it feels like its gonna go easy I'll put some sealer in with it and push it in.
I was thinking of the sealer because I know I need to fit it in the BIG frame and make sure the straight up edge seals good when the wing vent closes. So therefore when I do that I may need to "pull it back" just a tat and the silicone would let me do that.
Just so you know I have ALL the wing vent assembly taken apart, bead blssted it and have it painted and I have New tinted glass cut that matches the thickness I took out and the glass was cut from an original glass. Joe sent me the pattern.

NOW...I'll make a new post about this so if you answer please see the new post BUT....
I also got new RIVETS along with the Rivet Setting Tool to put the little metal/rubber strips straight the wing vent assembly. Well, today I took one of the rivets to play around with and see how hard it was to flatten them boogers out and WOW, I hit that sucker with a BIG lick or two and That rivet barely budged.
WHat is the secret to getting them to flatten out? Whats the trick guys?

EDIT: Tim, I'm with you on the manual instructions. I've read them two or three times...maybe four or five! Thanks

I used black silicone to do my vents. On my first try I inserted the glass too far in and the glass wouldn't mate with the rubber seal. The tape won't allow you to do this.

As far as the rivets are concerned, I gave up on them and used pop rivets.

Yea, I finally gave up on the tape after trying several thicknesses. I can't recall ever being so frustrated. As in previous posts just be sure to check that the glass seals before the silicone dries.

I purchased my glass from a couple of places locally. I went with the laminated glass as original. The safety glass is much thinner. The local shops had the setting tape in stock in different thicknesses and widths. One place had the ground cork and butyl tape. I did the glass in stages, and only spent less 200 bucks to replace all the glass in the 52. Plus if you talk to them they throw in the setting tape. In most cases mor than enough to set the window you are working on.

Guys I am with Ob1quixote on this one,I am not a fan of silicone
for the same reasons he has stated. I fit glass for a living.
If you must use a sealant,try and get Glazing urethane instead.You can get it at a FLAPS (Autozone sell it)
Silicone is for sealing bathtubs and boats!

Lightholder is concerned about glass removal after using sealant.
Provided you do not prime the area with the glazing primer removal should be fairly straight forward.
The urethane will be more than strong enough to hold the glass in place without the primer,and without the potential rust/contamination issues.

Sorry to hear your vent cracked Tim (SW)...I've never liked the idea of laminated vent glass for that reason.......
Consider replacing it with a 5mm tempered glass.(I did this with my '50.No vents though!)
Any good glass shop should be able to get one made for you. It shouldn't be too expensive.