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#465038 10/26/2008 3:08 PM
Joined: Dec 2005
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M
New Guy
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When putting everyting back together, do you use regular hardware or stainless or something else?

morepower16 #465050 10/26/2008 4:19 PM
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Its a interesting topic, I've seen the suppliers that sell bolt kits or specific trucks, I've also seen specialty fastener companies selling correct hardware. I've used hardware store bolts and after a couple years not happy how they hold up. They usually are not plated the best. I think that the factory used different types of plating, zinc, phosphate and thats why even after many years of service the hardware still looks reasonable. I'd be interested in how to go about duplicating the factory process for hardware.

don stocker #465066 10/26/2008 5:18 PM
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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If you can afford it, I would go with Stainless. I don't know if originality is a big issue,but for looks and durability Stainless wins every time!
Where possible I have used Stainless bolts/fasteners except where there are high tensile/shear factors. I have used grade 8
bolts in these situations, i.e Engine/suspension mounts etc.
This was on the advice of my local hardware supplier.
Jock thumbs_up


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
jockbolter50 #465184 10/27/2008 1:14 AM
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I agree with what Jock said. Stainless is not going to rust, but don't use it for critical fasteners, go with known quality grade 8.


R-Bo

1959 Apache 1/2 ton Big Window, Short bed Fleetside (under reconstruction)
1966 GMC 305V6 in the family
R-Bo #465195 10/27/2008 1:50 AM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
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All the non-clutch-head hardware on my 1954 Suburban was replaced with stainless steel. It is possible to find most of the grade 8 equivalent hardware in stainless steel.


tclederman #465230 10/27/2008 3:22 AM
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tclederman's link to Totally Stainless is good source for info. I ususally order from them directly by phone and not one of their many,many(including EBay) jobbers. That way you get quick advice for your project and can order a custom made set for anything on your truck. I recently had them put together a manifold stud kit rather then using their bolt kit.


Drew
DrewP #465525 10/28/2008 1:44 AM
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B
Master Gabster
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Amen to Totally Stainless. Be sure to treat them with an anti seize or you will regret it.


~Jim
Joined: Sep 2001
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269

For those of you who are interested in getting as close to an original appearance as possible, Totally Stainless sells some black-anodized stainless-steel hardware. Their black recessed-head hex bolts look just like the original bolts used to attach the inner to outer fenders in the engine compartment (and the black recessed hex-head bolts/screws that attach the radiator shroud to the top of the grill and the top of the radiator).


tclederman #465661 10/28/2008 2:08 PM
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Is anti-seize still needed with the anodized stainless hardware?


don stocker #465754 10/28/2008 9:39 PM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
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I think that it would be recommended to use an anti-seize compound.

http://www.totallystainless.com/totallystainless.htm

tclederman #465765 10/28/2008 10:19 PM
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The price of stainless, its strength and its ability to bind on itself has kept me from going that route. Instead you can buy a whole heck of a lot of a durable clear coat with lots of money left over.

Jeff


My 1953 Chevrolet
1947.1 Gallery
1972 C-10 1/2 Ton & 1972 C-30 1 Ton

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