The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors sound damping

Howdy Folks.... does anyone have any methods and materials for sound damping the cabs of A/D trucks ? These tin drums don't seal out road/engine/wind noise so swell.
thanks all

I used 30# Roofing felt, "glued" on with Plastic Roofing Cement- (Ashphalt & Fibreglass), on the roof, and under the seat, and felt under the floor mat. It made a huge difference, still loud and "truck-ish", but much less tin cannish. That and new weatherstrip.
Christopher.

Hey, you're from Kelowna!

save the cement, get icegard, self adhesive smooth face roofing ... your local roofing supply will have it or a similar product, used as starter course underlayment

Bill ... from even closer

I've noted that some of the asphalt-based sticky stuff from the big box stores winds up making your cab smell like a fresh tar pot.

I used a product from my local aluminum fabricators....a 4" wide tape that is used to seal the seams on insulated aluminum roof panels. It's easy to work with, stays stuck where you put it and a a roll and a half will do the doors, inner roof, and entire back of the cab. I just use 1/2" carpet foam underlay spray glued on masonite panel for interior firewall sound/heat insulation.

I've discovered that the best insulation isn't going to be that effective against heat/air entering the cab around the pedals let alone overcome the wind noise around the doors and windows. Glad I didn't drop a couple hundred bucks on the store-bought stuff!!!

Dave

Several of the Hot Rod Shops carry a aluminum backed sound deading that you can put in the doors and on the floor and the back of the cab etc.. It will quite things right down for you, it's approx. 3/16" to 1/4" thick. They also sell a spray glue for it and it is water proof so incase you get it wet it won't mold on you either.You must ask for the water proof one thought as all are not water proof!
62Blue
Don

I used a product called Reflectex from Home Depot for about 20 beans. I just glued it in. I haven't had the truck out of the garage yet so I don't know how well it works. It did take the tinny sound out when you close the door. Some pictures here. Have fun and good luck
Dan

I used the reflectex under my hood. It seems to work pretty good if you can find a glue that will stick to it. I had to re-stick it with 3M tape after it fell down the first time. It hasn't fallen again....yet.

I am sure all that stuff will make a difference however be careful that what you hang overhead won't melt when the hot sun gets to it. In reading past posts on this subject that has been a real problem
If you want to go beyond just a difference to Lexus/LTD quiet there are several brands of vibration damping on the market at varying prices. If you do a search for testing in this subject you will find a website where someone did an unbiased test on 5 or 6 of these products. He came away from this test believing that a product called Second Skin was the best for the money. It is a thermal-acoustic vibration damper.
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier-pro.php

I went to Home Depot and bought some "Peel and Stick" , did the inside of one door with it and while it made a difference I wasn't real happy with the way it went on ( it was sagging in places and had some air pockets where I was afraid moisture would get into).

I then went to a stereo shop and paid for the real thing and will say you get what you pay for. 3 times thicker, better adhesion, easier install, and BIG difference in noise reduction.

Not a lot of fun to pull the Home Depot stuff out of the door to put the good stuff in.

I had bought some stuff for my truck and just though about getting the name for you fellows who would like to put some insulation-sound deading into your truck. It meets all federal safety standards for motor vehicles. It's sold by Pro Rod in Escondido Ca.92026
AC-760-807-5461
Hope this helps some of you.
62Blue
Don

I used Peel & Seal gutter liner from Lowes. 6" wide aluminum backed self sticking rubber. Works good - no rubber smell even in hot weather. I'm sure its not as good as the real acoustic liner stuff but much less $$$ !

do a search cause there is LOTS of info on this subject
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=search

dave64: I used that stuff too and it worked just fine for me. I used a small roller to apply it and then sprayed adhesive over it and the foil backed insulation over it. Sounds like a Lexus inside. I've used the high dollar sound barrier in other cars I've built but see no real differnce. Works for me.

I have read a lot of forums on this subject. There are a lot of pros & cons & considering more bang for your buck, and the fact that a lot of people have had good results, I wonder if "Ice Guard" is worth a 2nd look. It appears that the biggest problem is the glue needs to be beefed up. Why not add a good quality 3m glue? As mentioned by everyone, "Ice Guard" can be found all over Canada & USA at Home Depot. It does't need to be shipped! As everyone knows these trucks require a lot of time and money. If we can do a good job for less money, then lets get it done. Wonder what other bolters think?

ice gard is what I'm using on daBus ... best bang for your buck - doesn't need any xtra glue, just needs to be applied in good warm temps, or preheat the metal you're applying it to

Bill

"Ice Gard"? Is that a brand name William or just a generic term? How thick is it? Is it a tar based material or rubber? Does it have alum foil on one side?
Denny G

inventor calls it, Ice and Water Shield ... another version is called WinterGuard ... local roofing place lists it as IceGard, might be another company ... some version of it will be available anyplace that deals roofing supplies

no foil, just a 'bullet proof' asphalt-polymer roll roofing meant to be used as a starter course underlay .... pretty thick, very sticky backed and rubbery tough, similar to "Peel n Seal", which is intended for hip and valley underlay, so narrow rolls

Bill

Be sure and seal any rust inside the doors and paint before glueing sound deadner. Other wise trapped moister will quicken rust through.

dynamat extreme is the best, pay the price it is worth it. the roofing stuf will smell when the truck is left in the sun.

Check out McMaster-Carr. They have some acoustic products that are foil backed - cheap too.

If you are interested in which product is the best and the least expensive check out the link below. It is a comparative study of these products and concludes Dynamat and SecondSkik are equal with SecondSkin the least expensive.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Installed peel n' seal product from Menards in doors, top, floor, cab behind tank in 2001. Insulated floor and installed rubber mat. No problems whatsoever--superior sticking power--no tin-can noise. Just removed mat and insulation yesterday preparing for tranny swap. Floor section remains beautimous!

I've done a fair amount of research on sound deadening stuff, but I haven't used any yet.

From what I have gathered the second skin folks seem to have a good selection of heat and sound stuff, and supposedly good quality and price. http://www.secondskinaudio.com/

These folks also have a nice looking package/system http://www.quietride.com/

Perhaps learn from the quiet ride folks and use the second skin products?

For my truck I want to do all I reasonably can to make it quiet inside, yet still appear stock or at least clean and professional looking.
Any tips or ideas?

Grigg

That's a great link! I read the whole thing, very enlightening.

In short the big question of quality and durability in sound deadening material comes down to asphalt versus butyl, and he recommends butyl quite strongly.

"If you really need to do this in the absolutely least expensive way and are not convinced or concerned by the demonstrated inferiority of asphalt based sound deadeners, go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a roll or two of Peel & Seal. This is the least expensive option and you won't have to worry about shipping costs. I can see no difference in Peel & Seal and the asphalt based aluminum skinned products in this review. If you are going to live dangerously, do it right. "

And if you read further he recommends the quality of the SecondSkin products over all others, and its reduced price when compared to "dynamat".

If the tables don't turn in the meantime I'll try some when I get to that point with my cab.

Grigg

Has anyone ever used pick up truck bedliner inside the cab? It can be apparently brushed on or sprayed on up to 1/4" thick and should be pretty good at stopping drumming for large steel panels (doors, ceiling of a Suburban...). I was also thinking about this for the floor, under the carpet, and the outside step.
Does anyone have experience with this?

Yes I have, and here's what I learned.

I used "reflex" brand professionally sprayed in bedliner on the floor of a 61 F350 with a very loud Detroit Diesel under the hood. The shop that did it was local, and they are the only local brand/choice.
They were sure that it would be a great floor mat and a great sound deadener...
It was an OK floor mat and a lousy sound deadener.

They finished it and the next day I drove it to CO springs for a truck show, it smelled the whole way, even with the windows open I was fighting a headache most of he time. After that about 30 hours or so of driving and then sitting all weekend the smell was gone.

The truck previously had thick carpet and multiple layers of house type carpet padding, that did a much better job of sound deadening than the bedliner did, but still not great.

While I was having part of a fuel tank for a different truck coated with line-x I inquired about the sound deadening properties. They claim that it is great, they frequently have vans come to be coated all over inside just to reduce the noise.
I relayed my troubles with the reflex stuff that was also supposed to be great at sound deadening..
They claim that most all bed liners have two primary ingredients let's call them "A" and "B" (I forget the real names). Supposedly Reflex has more "B" that is not so great at sound deadening, and Line-x has more "A" that is great at sound deadening.
I brought the fuel tank home in the back seat of the truck less than an hour after they finished coating it, and the line-x had absolutely no smell.

So in the end, I think I'll give line-x a try at a floor mat with some sound deadening benefits, and I'll never use Reflex again for anything.

The best solution is probably to use some professional sound deadener and then use the bedliner over that. I've even thought of using plastic or some sort of release agent so you could have a sprayed in yet still removable floor mat, as I don't want carpet and I'm not sure I want a permanent sprayed in bed liner on the floor.

Grigg

anyone know how much square feet it takes to cover the inside of a AD truck. Im planning to cover the floor, toe board, inside firewall, back wall, ceiling, and doors.

I saw a 30's Chevy that had been coated all over inside, dash board, doors and everything.. I didn't care at all for the look.
Hopefully you're not going that far, and the ceiling and back wall get covered by the headliner and the steel panels around the windows?

When I do mine I'm thinking of the floor board, toe board and as far up the firewall as possible. Then under the seat and that's probably it.
Everywhere else will be hidden and use the second skin brand sound dampening stuff.

Grigg

Well all of the sound deadening that I plan to put in won't be seen anyways. I figure adding a layer of sound deadening on the lower back wall of the cab (below the window/behind the seat), since there is only the exterior sheet metal, will help to insulate the cab as well. Same thing with the ceiling, though there maybe a panel/headliner I don't think it would do much for sound deadening and insulation.

Here are a couple before and after shots of mine with Second Skin installed.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2563843110099708909QgpqqH
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2256143850099708909xLHkst

I have recently seen at a show some liquid car insulation that contains little balls of ceramic... Anybody knows anything about that?
Also, I have often seen full size vans with their interior walls covered with something that looks a lot like spary-on polyurethane foam; I have also seen this foam inside the wheel wells of cars: does it work? It should be good against the tin-can noise inside a Suburban since it is "glued" on?

good deal on sound deadening. Read some good reviews on the stuff.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item..._medium=organic&utm_campaign=froogle

can't beat $210 for 58 square feet (30 1'by2' sheets)

AND ITS MADE IN THE GOOD OL USA!!!

I used a product called " Quietboat " from a marine supplier. It is waterbased and paints on like a thick latex. I got a good spec coverage with three coats ( drys in a few hours and you can see it dry as it turns a lighter gray) It does the job and is cost effective. I used less than a gallon for the inside of a panel truck. There is a demo using symbols on their web site and when I picked up the product at Harrisjet in Woodenville WA they had a set of coated and uncoated symbols there. It works just as advertised. on the panel sides I used a butyl moisture barrier(Homedepot). It didn't stick all that well until I used a heat gun and rubber stitching tool. It is not the design intention to stick it to other than horizontal surfaces but I think it may work longterm. I did this before I found the Quietboat and if I were to do it again I would use the butyl paint on the whole thing--floorboards firewall inside dooors everywhere. Note: I prepared and painted prior to applying any sound dampening. I used aluminum sound insulation(Homedepot) and doorskin panels(lumberyard) for the sides and a synthetic 1/2 " auto insulation (auto uppolstery shop) glued up with 3M 77 spray contact cement and water proof cardboard for the headliner. I found doublebacked carpet tape helpful for holding the panels in place while I screwed the support pieces to the overhead cross braces.. get some help... I made my strips from door skin but aluminum might be better because of the severe arc at the sides. I still haven't figured out how to do the right and left rear corners due to the odd curved shape. In the rearmost center bay I put a box for a dome light and a couple of rear speakers. It sounds good in the old truck these days. It was a hell of a job and I'm glad it is over
Tom

Theres a batten style insulation out now called "safe and sound". Fire proof and sound proofing qualities. I found it at Home Depot. It comes in 3 inch thickness. Mayyyyybe this will help you out. Cheerz !

In the middle of my 52 Project! I had left over carpet foam which a used on the roof prior to the headliner. Just a little sprar adhesive. You tap on the roof and no tin sound, I'll try some under the seat etc.

does anybody know if you can paint over this fatmat .i want it in the ceiling but i want to paint it

OOOOK, let me jump in here for a minute. I went to Lowes yesterday hunting the "Peel & Stick". Couldn't find it anywhere. No one seems to know. (that didn't surprise me)

Question: Is PEEL & STICK the actual name? If not what is?

Went to Home Depot tonight and ended up in the roofing section. The only thing I seen is a 6" wide 25' roll of Quick Roof which it says is an "instant waterproof repair". ($16.49 a roll) Its self stick with aluminum surface. Says just peal off release paper and press in place. Says its good for gutters, flashings, skylights, RV & mobile homes, trucks and trailers.

Question: is this the "peel and stick" I keep reading about??
Question: how thick is the stuff you guys are talking about?
The Quick Roof is only ABOUT 1/8" thick. I bought a roll but I don't think its what I need.
Question: Just what dept did you find the stuff in. Roofing?? Heating and Air?? Insulation dept???

When I ask folks they just look at me like....WHAT!!

Seems HD or Lowes don't have the stuff I think I'm really looking for. I'm trying to stay away from the High Dollar stuff.

Sooo, let beat this horse one more time. Actual name of products mentioned and where/what sections. I'm willing ot make one more trip!!

Alvin, the brand name is "Peel & Seal". I found it at my Home Depot in the window department. What you have is probably the same type stuff just a different brand. Mine came in a roll as you have discribed 6" wide x 25'. You should be able to find the brand name Peel & seal at any roofing supply outlet. They may have to order it but you can get in different widths if you want. I thought it was easier to handle in the 6" width.

Some have said that the other brands give off a smell when it gets hot but I haven't had that problem at all with the stuff I put in. I covered the entire inside of my cab and doors with the stuff. It really works well, the doors close with a dull thud. Definitely worth the effort.

George

Thanks George. This is the first time I heard to look in the window dept. Maybe thats the key as most of the employee's look dumb founded when you ask for it by the names we mentioned. I will again take a trip to HD but different dept!
DANG IT, I just got back from returning the stuff I bought to HD. Oh well, the weather is nice today so the drive will be a good one.