The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine locked

1947-216? engine sat since 1972 cant seem to free it up please someone help

Pull the plugs out, fill each cylinder with Marvel Mystery Oil. Let it set several weeks. Take the tin flywheel cover off the bottom. Try to turn the engine each way by using a pry bar on the starter ring gear. If that doesn't work, consider removing the head. Use something like a 2x4 on top of the pistons and hit each one several times, and try turning the flywheel again. If this doesn't work, get a bigger hammer. You will probably need to bore the engine anyway.

Here is a little test I did a couple of years ago on Kroil and PB blaster to loosen cylinders in a block.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...l&topic=0&Search=true#Post215167

www.kanolabs.com

Best stuff on the market for freeing-up rusty engines! I buy it by the gallon for use around my shop. Pour a couple of ounces of Kroil into each of the cylinders through the spark plug holes, and let it sit for about 2 weeks. Yoy should be able to drain practically all the Kroil out of the oil pan by then and pour it back into the cylinders. After a couple of pour in/drain out cycles, the engine should move with some pry bar action on the flywheel. Also, remove the pushrods before you start turning the engine to prevent bending them in case a valve is stuck. Once the crankshaft turns freely, then work on each valve to free it up.
Jerry

I just worked on a 216 and a 235. Both were were frozen.

I would take off the head. You will probably do this anyways. I ended up doing it. And move the pistons around. You will find the problem or which ones are stuck. If they are.

On one of the engines I used a mixture of dextrol and brake fluid in the cylinders. I read that the brake fluid would soften the varnish (old gas) and the dextrol (oil) would do lubrication. Then let it sit for a few days. You can use this or Mystery Miracle Oil. I tried that. I am not sure what worked the best. I tried Kroil, too.

As someone said "pop" the top of the pistons with a wooden dowel and hammer. I did not use a big hammer but kept popping the pistons around the outsides. Mine moved after a period of time. This time may be soon or much later.

I also found that the wrist pins in the pistons and rods were sometimes frozen. I had the engines on stands so I would flip the engines over and loosen them. Again, I found out that in the end the engines were completely torn down so that was not a problem.

Oh, be careful. Your soaking fluids will go around the pistons and make a mess if you don't have anything under it.

Best of luck. I am sure that somebody with better knowledge and expertise will give you advice.

These are just my thoughts. I am a novice at best.

I have never used Kroil. I am curious to see if I like it better than Marvel Mystery Oil. I have a stuck 302 that I need to start fooling with and decide if I want to use it or put in one of the other 302's I have.

I worked for a company for 15 years. Mechanics tried stuff all the time that vendors tried to sell them. Nothing, according to the maintenance/engineering dept was as good as KROIL. I have some but as most know it is not the cheapest. I use to get it in spray cans but now buy it in the quart size and put it in spray bottle. It will last a long time if you only use it for the tough stuff.
I also think Marvel Mystery Oil is good but it depends on just what it is, and how bad it is or what it is your trying to accomplish.

Edit: I think one reason most folks use some of the other concoctions is that Kroil is not found on just any shelf and so, as stovebolters, we use what we have or can get at the time!

I used some pb blaster and oil. I've also been told diesel will work too.