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Joined: Mar 2001
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I finally started to prep the cab floor today with the por-15. I bought a 6 pack of 1/2 pint cans because I did not know how much I would use at a time, and I did not want to waste any. I used 2 of the 1/2 pint cans and this is what I was able to cover.


Entire Floor
Fire wall,
Underside of dash,
Inside of Air Plentum box (cowl area)

Tomarrow I will flip the cab and do the underside. And the engine side of the firewall. I used a cheap disposble brush and painter mixing cup, I left 1-2 hairs in the paint, but I'm putting in a rubber mat so no one will see them anyway. Right out of the can it flows real well and I expect not to leave any brush strokes on the firewall. But I will use a better brush. I hate buying one for 5-10 dollars for a one time use, but I don't want any hair on the firewall. I don't thnk cleaning the brush will work that well.


Last edited by V-6 Fix Modelman; 05/08/2008 2:18 AM.

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modelman: I personally like the stuff! Just don't breath it!! I also understand about the hairs.....got a few on my chassis but what the heck, it gives character to it! I like ordering it in the smaller cans which I will do next time!


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4
Extreme Gabster
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Just put the brush in a ziplock bag with some xylene and put it in the freezer when you are done, and it should still be serviceable when you come back to it as long as you don't wait for more than a few days.


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'Bolter
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Hey Thanks 4OTF, Where did you learn that trick from? Insted of Xylene, would laquer thinner work?


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If the hairs bother me, i use the other end of the brush to help dig it out, then continue painting.
Anything that will see sunlight has to be topcoated.

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'Bolter
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I got the rest of the cab painted and to finish the body work.

http://community.webshots.com/album/418859032XlfpAT?start=0


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Remember, the government cannot give --anything to anyone --that they have not first taken away from someone else.
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You can use whatever thinner is compatible with POR-15. It keeps moisture out of the brush and the ziplock keeps air out of there. Be careful that it is compatible with the bristle and handle material, though, or it can melt plastic eventually.

I learned that trick from a friend who is a high end house painter, and I use it when I'm doing projects that require a paint brush or roller. I keep my latex paint rollers individually in big zip locks until I am done using that type of paint. It lasts for months between uses that way.


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'Bolter
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I'm with you on the small tin option, I bought the quart tin,I re-sealed the lid after use and a couple of days later I could hardly get the tin open again! :mad: It's as hard as nails!
I found a little goes a long,long way. Tried an experiment with a scrap piece of metal. I 'attacked' it with 40 grit sandpaper and it stood up really well! Great stuff!
I've covered my entire chassis,underside of my cab,cab fender wells,inside of the roof,the back of the dash and the rear of the cab behind the seat with under 3 pints! Brilliant! thumbs_up
It dries to a lovely gloss,shame a lot of it won't be seen!
Jock.


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How much direct sunlight effect this anyway, I am doing my frame and some of the areas will get occasional sinlight, will this turn the por milky?

Ed

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'''How much direct sunlight effect this anyway, I am doing my frame and some of the areas will get occasional sinlight, will this turn the por milky? '''
YES THIS stuff does NOT like sun..... PAINT THOSE AREAS W/ RUSTOLIUM OR ??? BLACK
''' I re-sealed the lid after use and a couple of days later I could hardly get the tin open again! It's as hard as nails! ''' :mad:

danceRESEAL THE LID W/ DOUBLE LAYER OF SURAN WRAP blush
I use cheap brushes and pick out the bristles when they are in the paint. mine is just a daily driver and i don't care much about that issue. frown i mostly did small parts except the inner fenders and rad support were my bigger pieces.

Last edited by carolines truck; 05/08/2008 3:10 PM.

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In your opinion how far up the firwall should I go with the Rubberized coating? I figure about an 2" area should be OK?

Jake


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Regarding the sunlight issue,I painted a tow hitch on my work truck about a year ago,the finish of the POR-15 has stood up to most things including the rock salt our roads dept. throws on our roads every winter! :mad:
The gloss shine has deteriorated somewhat but the overall condition of the paint is still good.
As others have said,to maintain a good gloss you should overpaint the POR-15.They also manufacture a chassis paint suitable for this application. wink


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: Apr 2008
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Paint stores will sell or give you new pint or quart cans. I aways have a few to empty what ever is left in a gallon can.
Used glass jars will work as well.


Regards,
Lindsay

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Paint brushes are like most any tool. There are good ones and there are look-alikes.
I have found if I get a good brush it doesn't shed hair like my cat, cause its annoying to have to pick hair out of the paint.
Dan


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A tip i learned, re-sealing the can with plastic wrap, say a half full can. Tuck the plastic wrap down into the can to the surface of the paint so no air is in contact with the paint, put the lid on. Also be sure to clean any paint out of lip of can.


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Couple of comments about these type of paints ( I rep two different brands but they are the same type).

Use a foam brush. They don't leave hairs and no lines and leave a smooth finish.

Don't open the can. Punch holes in the top of the can (very top, not in channels). Pour what you need. clean top and then cover with duct tape. Keeps the air out and it won't harden on you.

If you use a hard plastic dish, you can reuse them after a few days. When finished, I leave the brush in the dish and because this paint won't stick to hard plastic, after it dries, all the paint lifts right out.

Clean and degrease completely. While this stuff does stick well to rust, if you haven't degreased it will peel off quickly. Same with dirt...won't stick to it.

As for sunlight, all manufacturers recommend their cover coat over these rust encapsulators for exposed areas. If you're just talking underhood/cowl, it will take years and years before you see a change because it doesn't get that much UV.

Last edited by JDHolmes; 05/13/2008 2:22 PM.
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Hi JDH,I like the idea about puncturing the lid thumbs_up
That POR-15 is too expensive to waste!
Thanks for the tip!
Jock. grin


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 127
J
'Bolter
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the easy way to get the cover off is to put a piece of plastic wrap under the lid before you close it. comes right off and just throw the plastic away.


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