The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Heated intakes

I am posting to a "new" string to continue the discussion on another post since some seem unhappy about having a true conversation where the subject matter may widen just a bit.

Anywho..got a response from Tom Langdon about the plumbing on his gooseneck water intake adaptor. He claims that the manifold plate outlet should be(or is OK at least)returned to the heater hose going to the water pump with a tee or one can tee into the water pump inlet. That would look better but it would require a special fitting and might be pretty trick with so little room in the area, what with the fanbelt and pulley. I'm still a little curious about returning to the block drain plug bung.

Thought I'd pass this info along to the 3-4 folks who were having this discussion. Hopefully we and others will find it useful. Now I'm off to find the 5/8 X 5/8 X 3/8 tee fitting. Wish me luck.

i set mine up this weekend and i got lucky, found that tee at napa, doesnt look too bad if you take time to route it out of the way, havent gotten to test it yet as i found out that the offenhauser manifolds leak so its at a local welding shop getting some plugs put in.
if you dont find it at auto parts store also a guy told me you can easily find it at home depot.

I heat off the manifold, made my own as others have done. Would appreciate the inventive ways (in pics) how y'all set yers up w/ H2O. Thanks, Cosmo.

I lucked out when I hooked up mine (1960, 261; dual Offenhauser intake w/Rochesters and Fenton headers). The original water pump had two plugged holes (the engine had been in a large school bus), I assume for a second heater's supply and return (both holes on the "under side" of the thermostat).

Two other options (that Tom Langdon told me) are a GMC thermostat housing (one outlet under the thermostat, on the intake side of the engine) and/or a plate he sells that goes between the thermostat housing and the head (I have used it - no clearance problms).

Tim

I used T fittings on each heater hose to tap into the water. As a template to fabricate the plate for the intake, I used the gasket that normally goes between where the exhaust manifold and intake bolt together. Cut the plate from 1/4" aluminum and tapped it for two brass elbows, one plenum in and other plenum out. Used the black high temp RTV and allowed it to cure for 24 hours. Never has leaked and it's been about a year now.
-David

Cosmo,

Do you have an Offenhauser intake?

The plate behind the thermostat housing is visible on this photo. The other line goes to the other side - to a T fitting at the upper heater hose fitting.

http://ares.cs.siena.edu/~lederman/truck/Photos/Pickup/261right.jpg

In the next photo, you can see the hoses going into Langdon's plate under the intake manifold (sealed with RTV, around the perimeter and across the middle/divider).

http://ares.cs.siena.edu/~lederman/truck/Photos/Pickup/OilFilter4.jpg

The hoses are not as close to the exhaust headers as they appear in the picture.

mugsy's plate sounds very good - be sure to put RTV across the middle where there is a divider in the bottom of the Offenhauser intake.

Tim

If you get a water pump and thermostat housing for a big truck 261 it will have extra heater taps on both the thermostat and water pump housings. Also the bypass thermostat will get hot water to the manifold sooner if you hook it up right.

Or, just drill and tap the pump and water neck you have for 1/4 NPT fittings and run small lines to the intake. You don't need very much flow.

I'm wondering where I can get a water pump and thermostat housing from a 261 and if it will fit a 62 235 w/ 848 head. If so I would like to go this route! I'm starting to bail on the exhaust heat idea since it doesn't work well w/ fentons and since I will be installing an aluminum intake this next winter. It would be great to see more pics of how some of you have routed the water and where you ran the hoses. I'm going for a clean, unobtrusive look.

Hey Moneypit,

I know this is off topic, but I was wondering if you know the best way to prepare an eye of beef round roast?

thanks,

belairbolt :p

The thermostat housing has to be scrounged off a big truck or school bus. It has the same mounting on the head side of the housing as the 235 but the hose diameter to the radiator is differant and it has a bypass hose to go back to the pump. The water pump is exactly the same as a 235 water pump but with an extra heater hose outlet drilled and tapped right next to the normal one. They may be hard to find but you could modify a 235 water pump since the boss is there in the casting.

A school bus is a good place to look because most busses had an extra heater core in the rear with its own set of hoses. Another place would be a marine engine.

Hey 4onthefloor, thanks for all the info. I don't know why, but I was assuming that the extra outlets were on the maninfold side of the motor. The thermo housing looks like it has the extra heater hose outlet on the topside of the thermostat housing. Is this the bypass setup to the pump you were refering to? How would you hook it up "correctly" to warm an intake? Also, I found a new 261 pump at the local Napa store for $55. I'm tickled pink that I soon will be able to heat my intake using hoses that look like they should be there!

BelairBolt,
I don't know how to properly prepare eye of round to suit the Terre Haute taste but probably one would substitute possum for the beef and go from there.

...the first liar never has a chance Bolt.

Possum. mmmmm.

I'm just about finished with this. I followed the advise of 4onthefloor and used a waterpump and thermostat housing from a 261. The tubes are 5/16 brake lines. The plate started as a 4 x 5" piece of 3/8 flatbar. I cut it with a hacksaw and shaped it with a bench grinder. The fittings are all 90 degree elbows (2 out of the pump to make a complete turnaround). If someone wants to tell me how to post pics with these messages, that would be cool. I do know how to email them to you directly. If anyone is interested, send me your email address.

i assume you are using a digital camera. sign up for webshots, it is free if you use their reg. setup, premium cost. i don't know how to do all the tings other do, i am in awe. with a community webshots any one can be directed there. if you want to see how it works click on my community adddress at the bottom of this post. i would like to see the pix. i used the exhaust manifold heat. RON

That was relatively easy! Thanks. To see my pics, go to http://community.webshots.com/user/doctasuds

Someone was looking for a 2 oulet water pump. I bought a '56 261 water pump at NAPA yesterday (for 28 bucks!) and it has 2 water outlets.

Does the mythical dual action thermostat I've heard of even exist? Where can one be found?

I found the "dual action" thermostat housing from one of the members here. I picked up the bypass thermostat that fits at a local parts store. As 4onthefloor said earlier, your best bet would be an old 2-ton truck or a school bus.

So Friday night, I finally had the truck running and was tickled pink. Great sound. No leaks. Or so I thought. I've ran it a couple of times, enough to get the thermostat to open. This morning, I was going to take it to the exhaust shop, I noticed little tiny droplets oozing out between the intake and the plate. I've tightened them a smidgeon and it is still leaking about the same which is very little. Hmmm... Do I take it to the exhaust shop and then deal with it, or do I redo it now? I'm thinking the problem might be that 2-part gasket that was made for exhaust. I used black rtv on both sides, a bead across the divider, and let it sit for 24 hours. I may just make my own gaskets as I did for the thermostat housing(which isn't leaking). Any suggestions of something that might be easier?