The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors 1937 Chevy 1/2 ton dash

I have a 1937 Chevy 1/2 ton and cant seem to figure out how the dash comes out. There are dog ears on the sides, I've removed all the screws/bolts holing it in but the window crank blocks the dash from coming out. I have used a flash light to look at the crank but don't see any way to remove it first. Can someone enlighten me?

Assuming your 37 is same as my '40, the crank needs to be removed - handle unscrews from winder shaft. Then there are the two " dog ears " you mentioned to unbolt. The dash also has a lip on the front that slides over the windshield opening. Take out the screws ( 4 ?? ), and lift up to remove. Might be rusted in there.

My 37 dash too was difficult to get out. I did as you & Bruce Graham did, plus also had to remove the interior trim pieces that go on the sides of the windshield pillar. Removing these 2 trim pieces allowed me to push the dash up after all screws, bolts & crank were removed. I believe there were 2 screws on each side trim piece.

Charles

The crank in the center of mine has a screw right in the middle just like the window cranks. I don't remember anything odd about getting the dash out, I know I painted out of the truck then installed it later.

They are tight! Take out the two screws on each side. Originals were big slotted screws. Like Joe says, take the screw out of the crank handle and pull the crank handle off. Next be sure the steering column is detached from the bottom of the dash. Pull out on the bottom just a bit and, perhaps using a rubber hammer, hit the bottom of the dash a few good whacks and it should pop up off the "lip" it is "hanging" on.
Personally I have removed two dashes and never had to remove any trim....but as they say, there is a first time for everything!
Let us know how you do getting it out.

Thanks Every one for your help, I have had the whole thing just hanging there but when I tried to lift it off the dash would hit the window crank spline and I just was being cautious. Everything went smooth! Thanks again!

I'm glad I came across this topic before I tried mine... now I know what to expect! :crazy:

I got a "new" old dash a while back, sandblasted and painted it using a nice hammered finish, installed original gauges etc but hadn't gotten to removing the "old" old dash yet... even though I didn't ask the question to start with, thanks for all the info guys... I'll let you know how mine works (with pics) when I git 'er done!

~Trev

Ok so 1958GMCNut was over the other night and we decided to get ambitious... we pulled my dash out, but not before realizing that 3 of the 4 bolts holding it in were so tight they could not be removed so dave torqued 'em and got 'em to snap off (after the first one went on it's own)

I did however get one that survived and am gonna replace 'em with stainless nuts and bolts that will look a heck of a lot better there too...

One complication after removing the dash though... the ignition was still in it so we did a detailed diagram, then after taking off the wires brought the dash inside... we checked tech tips in a previous post and learned that you should push a paper clip into the hole beside the key, turn the key and the lock should come apart... The only thing is mine has TWO holes so we tried one, then both and nothing came apart...

Any ideas how to get the ignition to pop free or remove it to install in the "new" old dash when the paperclip trick doesn't work? If not I guess I'm gonna head for a locksmith in the next 24 hours and have them do it as Dave suggested...

Thanks in advance for your ideas...

~Trev

Did you try the paper clip when you had the key in "run" ? I think that is where they go, just try it on both holes at eaach position, it will come out. Joe

Cool... I'll give it a shot a bit later and post my result before running off to the locksmith... thanks Joe!

~Trev

Looks like the locksmith is gonna get some business unless I can find a way of making this work... I have tried the paperclip in one hole, both holes and all ignition positions and it still remains right there without moving...

Any other ideas???

~Trev

This was very helpful to me, however, I would add that on my truck (a 55-1) I had to use the other hole and instead of turning counter-clockwise I had to turn clockwise. Other than that it went very smoothly.