The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Truck overheats after 10 miles, HELP!!!

I've been scratching my balding head over this one for months now and I need some help (as anyone who knows me can tell you) Here's the scenario... My truck (a 62 c-30 with a 261) runs great for about 8 or 10 miles and then starts running like I'm bucking a 90 mph headwind. I think it may be getting hot, but the temp lite doesn't come on, I don't really smell any 'hot engine' smells and when I shut it down I don't hear the 'tink, tink, tink' like you normally do when an engine overheats. Water in the radiator looks normal...rusty with a faint greenish cast indicating some coolant at least.
I do know I have some problems with the fuel system. I changed the fuel filter the other day and the fuel that came out of the filter was orangish brown from rust.
I also suspect I may have an oil pump problem. When I start the truck for the first time of the day, the oil light goes out for about 30 seconds and then comes back on and stays on for the rest of the day. But I don't hear any lifter noise so I'm not sure...
Does any or all of this ring any bells with any of you wrench wizards out there? I really need to get my truck going. I have to haul a load of roofing to my dad's house Labor Day weekend and it's about 60 miles one way on the freeway. HELP!!!!!
:confused: :confused: :confused:

If your not concerned with originality only driveability I would suggest an underdash mechanical cluster for temp and oil pressure make sure to get complete units including the pieces that mount in place of your electrical sending units. Also seems your vehicle could due with a radiator and gas tank flush.

The reason for mechanical gauges is to eliminate possible wiring defects causing idiot lights to stay lit. you may be able to test existing sending units but I'm a parts changer not a mechanic and can't advise the proper method of testing them

You may want to try a new ignition coil, if the coil is going bad it will cause running issues after it gets hot.

One more thing to check is that the choke is fully open after warm-up.

I vote for getting the gauges. The three gauge clusters at places like Napa are like $10 complete. It is also not normal to have rusty radiator water and fuel. Loose gunk in the fuel tank might cause intermittent fuel delivery problems with similar symptoms.

First- - - -RIGHT AWAY- - - -check out the oil pressure! Put a direct-reading gauge on the engine, and leave it there through the warm-up period and normal driving. Any other work is secondary to keeping the bearings lubed.

You might also want to put something like a candy thermometer in the top of the radiator while the engine warms up, and see where the temperature goes when the thermostat opens.

A sticky thermostat will allow the engine heat to go up without the radiator overheating, at least for a short time. Check to see if the block and/or head is noticeably hotter than the radiator. A good flush and a new thermostat might be a good starting place, after you've checked oil pressure, of course.
Jerry

Follow Jerry's advice. I would not drive the truck until I was sure of the oil pressure. Oil acts as a coolant and friction reducer. without out it your engine will soon be toast. On a warm engine pressure should read about 15+ psi at idle, 30-40 psi at speed.

It sounds like you might have two or more problems. Oil pressure or gauge, cooling system and a rusty gas tank. You need to take care of them in that order.

one thing to check when you get aroundf to the fuel system is to make sure there is nothing in the fuel tank that can block ytour fuel outlet and cause a problem. I've seen everything from newspaper to rust or leaves. Also check any rubber fuel lines. Just had a 39 F--- that would run about 5 miles than die. However after a little bit it would do the same. The problem was a rubber fuel line connecting the tank to the steel line. It was seperating inside and would take a while to close off the fuel from the suction of the fuel pump.

Saw the same on a truck once and there was a lot of foreign matter in the carb bowl. it was all rust color and there was actual rust on the bottom of the bowl.

Many thanks to all of you for responding. I just got an Oil Pressure gauge and plan on installing it tomorrow. I went ahead and ordered a new coil while I was there and will pick it up today. The old coil looks really bad (rust, etc.) so decided to go ahead and replace it too. Flushing out the cooling system should be no problem, but any advice on how to clean out the fuel tank?

Pea Gravel....

Put a few handfulls of washed river rock pea gravel in the tank...the ones used to seal coat roads....shake, agitate etc...then dump it out...I must admit, I have never tried this, but the guy who told me to try it owned a whole herd of ADs....

Most radiator shops offer gas tank boilout in their famous caustic tanks. It's usually a fixed price including a liner product which seals pinhole corrosion and is alchohol/benzene resistant. Between 70-100 $ sounds about right. I have wired my filler tube to the tank so it would get the same treatment. Short of buying a new tank, this is a good investment. The shop deals with the hazardous residues and leaves a nicely hot tanked, sealed tank.
While you are at it, new fuel lines and hoses will complete the job. I don't mess with the home cleaning anymore since the local shop does a much better job. Whatcom Radiator in Bellingham is who I use. They have done five tanks for me through the last few years.