The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline How can i improve my stock brake system on my 53?

Whats the best way of improving my stock brakes, without having to put disc brakes. Thanks in advance

Adjustment is the key to these old brakes. Assuming you have good shoes, the system has been bled (no air in the lines), and the master and wheel cylinders are in good shape then a good adjustment will make remarkable improvement in the stopping ability of the stock brakes.

This is the way I do it: run each wheel adjustment out until the wheel won't turn at all, this will center the shoes in the drum, then back the adjustment off until you hear a slight scraping noise but the wheel still turns freely. When you're done at all 4 corners, your pedal should only depress a couple of inches and be nice and solid.

Yes, proper adjustment is the key. Another way to keep them in shape is to use them. Too often these trucks get parked too long and the corrosion in the brake system degrades the brake system. When my vehicles are parked, I try to make an effort to at least depress the brake pedal just to help keep them operational.

Perro,

I think if all your stock components are in first class shape, the only way to improve the performance of the stock system would be selecting the VERY best lining and maybe allowing more cooling air to enter the brake area.

Better braking means more friction which means more heat...the heat will kill the linings so that's the item you need to manage.

Stuart

Is there any particular reason why you don't want to upgrade to disc?

All good auto parts stores, or tool distributors sell a brake tool that measures the inside diameter of the drum and then slides over the outside of the brake shoes on the front and rear individual wheel shoe assembly-like a go- no go- gauge. If you measure the inside of the drum then slide this tool over the shoes you can quickly adjust the shoes with the drum off. This will give you a more accurate adjustment on all four shoes, and eliminates the outside adjustment tool and eliminates pulling.The tool is fully adjustable for any size brake shoe assembly. Works for me.
Jeff

For post 51 brakes, in regard to proper adjusting consult the shop manual. Most folks seem to never deal with centering the shoes in the drum which is done by moving the anchor pin. The round shaft at the top of the backing plate that the shoes rest against. It adjusts side to side to center the shoes.
Steve O

mobileortho, My plans are for disc brakes in the future,just don't have the extra money right now.I've got a 41 and 64 i'm putting money into, right now.
Would a bigger master cylnder work, a little better.i've checked all brake components,everything looks good.
Perro

Perro,

A larger master cylinder wouldn't help. The whole stopping thing is decided where the lining meets the drum. More pressure would only smoke the brakes faster.

If you drive the truck with any amount of common sense, the stock brakes are fine. If you drive 90 miles an hours down mountain roads with a full load of pea gravel, you might get into trouble.

Stuart

Perro, you should have sold me that suburban when you had the chance..............
How ya been? Thats a 49 with Huck brakes,right? I think those are kinda touchy to get adjusted right. Two adjustments on each wheel.

The best stopping power in the truck is based on the friction between the rubber and the road, so long as all the other brake components are fully functioning properly.

A larger master cylinder (bore) will give you worse brakes. The pedal will be at the very top but it will take King Kong to push it down. The smaller the master cylinder bore that will still give you enough pedal will also give you brakes with the least effort.

True, and to small of a master cylinder bore won't move enough fluid and you have even worse brakes, as they don't fully apply.

While it may be possible to go one step smaller, if there is such a thing for your vehicle, and keep the brakes in good adjustment and the fluid toped off, I would leave things as the are. If you go changing stuff you may find out the hard way that it did not work as planed. Stick with the stock components or an aftermarket kit that is engineered to work properly.

Grigg

Thank You guys, i'm taking in some good advice.
Perro

What do you guys think about switching to a dual resivor master cylinder? Is this worth while or should I just stick to the stock components and make sure the E-brake works.

Great idea.
Helps tremendously with safety, won't do much if anything for actual stopping power.
Consider a booster to go with it.

Grigg