The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Plan of attack for body-off restoration

I was just going to "fix a few things" on my truck but the deeper I dig the more I realize I'd only be putting lipstick on a pig so I'm going all the way... not a VCCA restoration but the PO really hacked up a lot of things and I'd like to just get in there and do it right.

How do you approach a project like this?

As I disassemble it should I fix each part as I take it off and then store it for assembly, or do you disassemble everything, clean the frame, make any mechanical repairs, then fix body parts after everything is apart?

I assume that each part is painted separately and then assembled painted.

Just point me in the right direction and I'll figure out the details.

Hi Woody,

It's obvious you know your way around the block....so you're ahead of the average bear! Your truck "looks" like a diamond in the rough.....popping off the fenders and evaluating the usual hot spots...the cowls for deteriation will help determine just how much of a "frame-off" you'll want/have to undertake. I have never been much of a fan of complete "tear-downs" unless you were trying for maximum points, already divorced, and had a winning lottery ticket tucked in your wallet!

From my personal experience, you can plan on a 1000+ hours for a full job.....I spent 10 months, 40-60 hrs/wk just getting the essentials under control, only to find that at best, the 50's mechanicals, placed a major limitation on where I could enjoy driving. Not to put a damper on "stock restoration" or slight those who follow that path, I found that if you intend to use your truck on the 21st century highway you'd better make some serious upgrades to the gearing, brakes and electrical system.
How you go about it, will depend on just how much "get-up-and-go" you've got left. Speaking from my personal experience, restoration is a taxing challenge on the old bones!

Ultimately, you'll have to make the final call as to whether you go all out with the frame-off. I'm confident you will be able to evaluate your personal "potential" and make the right call!

Dave

Dave,

I'm planning to go with a 235 and the 3:55 R&P upgrade and I've already installed a power front disk brake setup. So, I'm not planning (nor can I afford) a restoration in the pure sense of the word. Personally, I like the way you dealt with yours and I've spent a lot of time studying your photos.

My reason for thinking body-off is because there is a lot of hacked up repair work done to the floorboards. Once I get that mess torn out, I'll be looking very carefully at the body mounts. If they look bad, the cab comes off for repair. If not, I'll just clean up, POR15 and leave it go at that.

I just want it right, not showroom fresh. I love driving it and want a basic, safe vehicle with a body that fits together and doesn't look like it was caught in a hail storm.

At 61 years young, I'm sure this will be my "final hurrah" as far as big projects go. Once finished I can just enjoy it, knowing exactly what condition it's in and with the satisfaction knowing that I did it myself.

The funny thing about taking a truck apart......you don't have to remember where anything goes, or even know what it is.

To put it together is a whole different story.

I would suggest making it a bunch of smaller projects instead of one large one. That way you can drive it inbetween, and it isn't as discouraging or overwelming.

One thing that I have noticed is that it can be a lengthy process. If you have to continually shuffle the project around to make room for the things that HAVE to me done, parts get lost or harder to find. Many projects never get finished that way.

Good luck and keep it fun.

I'm a pretty methodical person, very organized so I'm pretty confident that I'll have that part down and I'm already photographing everything.

I like your idea of breaking it down into projects that can be done while I'm still driving it. So far I've got everything out of the interior other than the seat and gauge cluster. Once I get a better look at the floor I'll decide how far I need to dive into the cab.

Regardless, The bed will be the first thing to be removed... Get the sheetmetal worked out, hang a spare tire carrier and clean up that part of the frame.

Czechman,

I chose the later and tore it down to a rolling chasis. I have every manual in hand or at least enroute to get it back together again, however, my intention is to follow Fla54Chevy3100 direction towards a more modern driver. I had a 53F100 that was so original I ended up selling it because I didn't have the heart to modify it. I knew that there were folks out there that wanted it for what it was 60+ years ago. I however did not, so I opted for this slightly solid 61 Apache and started my tear down a month ago. For every panel/part I remove, I find work to be done. I see dollars building everyday in this project and have to ask myself, "What the hell was I thinking?". I clean up, jump on Stovebolt.com and surf through the galleries for moral support. My father always said, "nothing good comes easy" and he wasn't lying. Good luck to you whatever your decision is with this truck...

Northdm

I think Builder has the right idea! By isolating the systems you can focus on getting the core essentials up-to-snuff! I was fortunate in that my cab mounts were solid....that alone was a major stepping stone. As for floorboard repair, I would really rather have the cab locked into position on the frame and do it one side at a time. If the cowls are bad, as well as the boards you can get into BIG trouble if you don't have everything stabilized. I've seen some door fitment problems that didn't appear until the "repaired" cab was all painted and back on the frame. These kind of problems can sap the joy out of all your efforts.

The 3.55 sounds like a great option....I've never had any experience with a torque tube and had concerns about getting the thing sealed properly so I wasn't dumping the transmission oil all into the diff. Dollars and cents wise...it was more economical (USD) to just eliminate the potential problem completely. Of course, the swap was labor intensive, but I absolutely love to cruise the truck and it was worth the effort and extra down time. I wouldn't hesitate a minute to head out cross-country.

Something folks often overlook about a complete frame-off, is the amount of space needed to store all the various components.
If you stack the sheetmetal you'll always need the part that's on the bottom of the pile and a fully disassembled AD, laid out orderly, will take up the better part of a 3 car garage. And that's before you get everything painted and MUST protect your investment. I sympathsize with those who try it in a 1 car garage. A disaster in the making! Seen too many gouged paint jobs to wish that on anybody!

At 61 (just a kid) you've got some "stuff" left but don't kid yourself....."your final hurrah" will more than likely lead to the "Final, Final Hurrah"!!!!! Been there, done that, doing it again! "Old Dogs" just can't stand to sit around and watch the kids play!!!

Dave

Dave

I finished my '50 3100 disassembled to the last nut and bolt resto this summer. 3.5 years in the making working weekends and some nights after work. I had spent the previous 27 years fixing as needed. I do know that many a folk tear down a truck and never find the time or dedication to finish it. Only you can answer this question for yourself. For me, taking it to the frame and starting from there worked and I know that everything is new or rebuilt all at once. The feeling is awesome when it is done.

I started with the frame, springs, brakes, axles, then on to drivetrain and electrical, while at the same time doing rust repair and body work. Cab sat on the frame for most time after frame done and can be flipped on to its back on the frame for working on underneath. Paint and final body work was done last after several test fittings of body parts. The biggest chunk of time spent in my experience was simply cleaning and derusting parts.

(I will say doing this way something funny can happen, (and I have noticed this with other folks as well) is that the frame tends to be the nicest work on the truck. It is never really seen, but it is cleaned and painted when interest and energy is high. As time goes on, haste to get it done becomes more important and the last thing, final paint, the most noticible, may suffer. But boy if they are willing to roll underneath, take a look at that frame.)

I do know myself, had I gone the route of fixing while driving, I would have done a lot more driving than fixing and my truck would not be in the shape it is now. You can check it out at: http://community.webshots.com/album/560337246OsfbnC (Haven't yet got a shot to the gallery.)

If you do do a teardown, you cannot take too many photographs. I also used many ziplocks baggies marked with a sharpie for what's in them and then placed those in plastic bins marked by where they came from, eg interior, firewall, bed, etc.

What ever you do, good luck and do not lose heart.
Steve O

We have done or in the process of doing our 12th truck. We decide going in what we want as a finished product ( stock, rodded or a combo) Photograph everything and label as we take off using different boxes and bags with the photo in it for future use.
After everything is laying there make a list of what need replaced and what can be repaired. Order what you need to do the entire job at that time if posssible ( this takes some $$$ but you have it when you need it).
Start with the frame and suspension( sand blast rebuild, patch paint)...then get it back to being a roller this way it is out of the way. Motor and tranny next, then start with patch panles on the cab and body work. Move to the front end same thing then bed. assemble and make sure it all fits Tear apart and paint reassemble, wire, interior gas and go

Nifty 50 2,

Man, NICE job on your truck. It's this kind of dedication that inspires a lot of people to want to do it right.

I'm used to long-term projects. I once spent 4 years building a model airplane, but I did win my class in an international competition and as an informational graphic artist I recently spent over a year doing a technical drawing of the Wright Flyer.

I'm organized and methodical and don't think of something like this as a single project but rather a series of smaller projects. I've already begun to line the shelves with boxes that are labeled with what's in them and baggies marked with the contents. It's just a matter of putting one foot in front of the other and making it happen.

I like the idea of keeping the cab on the frame and just tipping it back to work on the underside. That makes sense especially for one strapped for space like me.

Thanks for the inspiration.

Dave,

I'm all to familiar with how flexible bodies can be when you start cutting big chunks out. That's one reason I'm not too keen on removing the cab. Even if I have to do surgery under it, I'll do as much tack welding and dry-fitting as I can before committing to final welds. Back in the 70s I worked for a company doing show cars for FoMoCo... cut the roof off a Pinto once... yikes!

From what I can gather you do a lot more serious driving in yours than I intend to do with mine. I live in a very Rural area and would just like to hit the back roads for 10-20 mile jaunts to nearby towns and maybe an occasional 50 mile round-trip to The Big City for an annual show. So although I appreciate all the time, money and effort you put into your truck, my driving expectations are much lower than yours... everywhere I want to go, I can drive 45mph limit roads.

Old Dogs love new tricks

iceburgh,

You and I are on the same page and I have been buying parts as I feel I'll need them each month. As scary as the Credit Card bill is, I'd probably have a coronary if I waited and ordered everything at once. Luckily I'm single so there is no War Department to contend with.

I like your sequence... makes perfect sense.

Czechman,
I checked out your Wright Flyer drawing. I have no doubt that I would want to see your truck when finished with your attention to detail. Thanks for the comment on the truck.
Steve O

Mine took five years and I never had a schedule! There were many smaller projects along the way like the heater, carb., etc. I also had a great time shopping the swap meets and Ebay. I probably couldn't have afforded to do it without Ebay.

My truck is more or less original in the mechanical sense and I find that 50 mph is just fine to cruise at. I must add that I did change the rearend gearing from 5.14 to 4.10 .

It is a really good feeling to know that you have dealt with the complete vehicle yourself in detail.

Im not hardly experienced, but hears my 2 cents.

Go to frame it's just a couple extra bolts.

but,

You need a digital camera.
Make sure date and time is right, always.
You need a computer.

You can not have too many photos. No matter how silly it seems.
Put photos is designated folder.

Arrange photos by "date picture taken". This way no matter what their named they will be in order of the frame off. ( or is that body off, frame up)

Brake down in large pieces. (eg. Don't take out dash componets, seat, etc untill working on those parts.) Thats my current problem.

Woody:
However you decide to progress, consider it a hobby and take your time. The finished product will look a whole lot better that way.

I had to take mine down to the frame because it was badly rusted out, and I got another frame in excellant condition from a Bolter here. It's getting the complete going over as it's put back together (stock) - that way I'll have a "brand new" truck to drive without worry for many yers to come. I too drove it fpor many years fixing as I went, but always knew that I would one day take it down to the frame. Lots of ziplock baggies, Sharpies and pictures, as well as a notebook full of notes.
Samantha

I'm in the middle of restoring/upgrading a 1955 Chevy 1/2 ton NAPCO. It is a long journey you are taking on, but one that I think is worth it. My suggestions:
1. Get a digital camera and take pictures constantly. I dump mine into iPhoto so I can go back and look at all the images. It as saved my [censored] a bunch of times.
2. I live in Florida and if you clean a bolt and don't paint it, it will rust. I removed nuts and bolts, cleaned them with a wire wheel and shot them with a can of primer. Don't spray too much, cause it will be a [censored] to tighten bolts when the threads are full of paint.
3. Ziplock bags! Label everything, save everything, even if the part is so far gone you know you will replace it.
4. Tough out the dirty, rusty, greasy phase, cause when you get to assembly, its an awesome feeling.
5. Break down the project into manageable phases, i.e. Disassembly, Frame Painting, Rust Repair, Engine, etc. I have one phase under my belt and am almost done with assembling the chassis. I'm in my 3rd year. Of course, I have two kids and a family to pay attention to.

Good luck!
Michael

I've had my truck for 4 years. I haven't gone without driving it for more than a few days between most projects. So far, here's what I've done, pretty much one subproject at a time in order. Rebuilt brakes/lines, tune-up, new belts/hoses, fuel lines, new tubes and tires(2004), and since then, radiator recored/restored, added dual exhaust and fentons and added water heat to original intake. Then came the addition of the Overdrive and restoration/rebuild of original sm420 transmission. Should have switched to radials 1st, but did that next. This involved having new wheels made from original style centers to fit 16 inch modern radial tires and still clear my stock suspension. That wheel project alone took over 4 months just waiting for the wheels when they were supposed to be ready in 6 weeks. Anyway, then came the HEI ignition w/7mm wires. The latest sin was replacing original dummy light instrument panel for an aftermarket full gauge panel including tachometer. Over the last 2 years, I've been building a warmed up 261. Currently, I'm researching disc brake upgrades and collecting parts for a stock suspension restoration w/poly bushings and anti-swaybars. I am hoping to have all this done and then the motor swapped by spring. Maybe next fall I'll begin restoration of body and frame, but definately not until the mechanical stuff is finished and working the way it should.

Personally with 2 jobs and kids, it amazes me that people can do all this in less than a year. Maybe when I'm retired with time and more experience, or rich, whichever comes 1st, I'll be able to do it in a year with proper planning.

I forgot the best part. Right now, I could walk out to the garage, check the vitals, start it and drive it to Portland or Vancouver B.C. and back on the freeway, moving with traffic or better and trust it as much as my modern vehicles to make the trip without problems. I've done it twice in the last 2 years.

Quick tip:

Use heavy duty brown paper lunch bags for storing and organizing lots of parts.
They are easy to write on and read.
They stand up in a cardboard box or drink flat and are easy to flip through. One box full for each area, under hood, dash, brakes.... you get the idea.
Often tougher than a ziplock.
You will use lots and lots, and they are cheap.

Do get the extra heavy ones, even of you have to order them.

Grigg

Thanks for the inspiration is right! I'm glad I read everybodys input. I now feel there is hope! The truck I bought is a 1951 3100 5 window. It was choped 3 inches and every thing was in pieces. There were no front fenders or grill and alot of other things missing. So I've got a challenge in front of me. Looking at your pictures of what you have done with your projects does give one inspiration. Thanks!