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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 700 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 700 | After being accused by Denny Graham of running out of stuff to do in this thread I thought I would post this where it belongs. My newly remanufactured 235, which now has about 400 miles on it, has a suspicious clunk, clunk, clunk sound in it. This sound is not in the valve train and seems to be emanating towards the front end of the engine. Also, the noise becomes more noticeable at idle as the engine warms up. I've done the rod to ear listening thing but can't isolate the culprit. Right now I'm thinking about dropping the pan for a look see but will more than likely call the reman shop for their input. I'm also thinking of putting the truck on a trailer and driving over to Orlando and let them listen to it. Hey Don, I thought that's the way the Bolt was supposed to sound??? Nothing would make me happier at this point. My problem is that the last time I heard my 'bolt run was in 1996. At that time it had a 216 in it that had seen far better days. It sounded something like a clickedy clickedy clackedy, clunk, du-wop, pah-thump, clickedy, clickedy, clack. I wish I had something local to compare sounds with, or remembered what a newly rebuilt 235 sounds like. I've heard the term "nothing purrs like a six in heat" but this is more like a beast ready to pounce. This is one of those tricky issues where you may be damned if you don't and surely damned if you do (pulling the engine). Anyway and ideas, moral support, etc. is appreciated. Don My 1941 in the Stovebolt Gallery My Photo AlbumBut I tried, didn't I? ... At least I did that. RP McMurphy The past belongs to the future...but only the present can preserve it. Besides the noble art of getting things done, there is a nobler art of leaving things undone. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Don,
Deep clunks are usually associated with main bearing knocks. There have been some threads lately dealing with "clunks" and the vibration dampener has been an item of interest.
If you have a mechanics stethoscope, you can attempt to isolate this noise further which might solve the mystery. Don't overlook silly things like a generator or even a waterpump.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | Can you lessen the noise by pushing in the clutch? This would load the crank to one side of the thrust bearing keeping it from floating back and forth if the bearing was the problem, Scott | | | | | Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 132 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 132 | As others mentioned, deep clunks are normally associated with main bearing. If that is the source, it is usually accompanied with a drop in oil pressure.
but other clunk sources would be a loose flywheel or a crank pulley with an oversized hole or either not properly installed. also consider any bolt on accessory drives with loose bolts.
Try clutch in or out, air (if you have it) on or off, different engine speeds and loads. Check back with your findings and maybe we can be of more help.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 700 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 700 | All input is more than welcome. Unfortunately, the clutch idea is not going to help as the clutch assembly has it's own issues. Clankity clankity as the clutch fork rattles around. This is not a throw-out bearing and is more than likely related to not enough pressure being applied to the pressure plate as there is no adjustment left in the linkage. It's also a 9" clutch assembly installed in the 235.
As I proceed through this issue I will update this posting so that others can learn from my mishaps.
Don My 1941 in the Stovebolt Gallery My Photo AlbumBut I tried, didn't I? ... At least I did that. RP McMurphy The past belongs to the future...but only the present can preserve it. Besides the noble art of getting things done, there is a nobler art of leaving things undone. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,868 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,868 | A piston installed backwards on the connecting rod, or the entire rod/piston assembly reversed on the crank journal will cause some oddball noises due the the wrist pin offset being turned the wrong direction. The piston is "floating" in the cylinder as the spark plug fires, causing the piston skirt to slap against the cylinder wall.
A main bearing knock generally is loudest as the engine is accelerating, and tends to diminish or disappear as the load comes off the crank just before the transmission is shifted to the next higher gear. Then the knock begins again as the load comes back on. Connecting rod knocks tend to get more noisy as speed increases. Yours sounds most like a main bearing, with a possible piston slap and a rod knock following, in that order. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,602 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,602 | I've been exactly where you are as my truck had a very deep thuinking sound after it was rebuilt. You can follow along with my nightmare here by my message #148631 - August 10, 2007 . It was the crankshaft that didn't get enough oil and I had to pull and rebuild the motor a second time. I'm no expert but I recommend you stop driving it until you can determine what is making the noise. Drop the oil pan and look for metal filings. I found alot in mine. It ran great until it warmed up and started thunking... good luck. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Don, don't make any snap decisions and think this thing through. As you suggested I would trailer it to the reman shop and let them listen to it. With only 400 miles on it I would hope you have a warrantee of some kind? Don't take any chances by continuing to drive it. I also give you lots of moral support because I too know what it is like to have a clunkedy clunk and wonder "now how much is THIS gonna cost". Good luck pal and we all wait to hear what you find. | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I found that using a piece of 3/8" plastic hose to listen with was very helpful. I put one end to my ear and pointed the other end at the area I wanted to listen to. I would bring it within an inch of the area. I found this to be extremely directional in nature. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 863 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 863 | Pull spark plug leads while engine running to find if noise goes away.... if it does, it's a conrod knock on the cylinder # that you pulled the wire off of..... | | | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 700 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 700 | Thanks guys. truckernix - I forgot that I did use a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe in addition to a "listening" rod. I'll be talking to the reman folks tomorrow.
I'll also take all of the advice and not drive it anymore until I get something done. It is a bummer for sure. Fortunately, the rebuild came with a 36,000 mile warranty. Of course that doesn't include the yank and reinstall. We'll see just how good of a warranty I was provided.
Don
My 1941 in the Stovebolt Gallery My Photo AlbumBut I tried, didn't I? ... At least I did that. RP McMurphy The past belongs to the future...but only the present can preserve it. Besides the noble art of getting things done, there is a nobler art of leaving things undone. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 | Hey Don....check your mail.
Dave | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,602 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,602 | A 36,000 mile warranty should help you alot! My first motor rebuilder died six months after he rebuilt the motor. With his untimely death, went his company and my warranty. He was a very nice old man but I still have to laugh about the "Lifetime Warranty" that only lasted six months... :-) | | | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 700 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 700 | That's an interesting view of a "Life-Time" warranty. I have actually asked, on occasion, who's life are we talking about here. The usual answer was "the original purchaser's, or something to that effect. I never thought to ask... "what happens if you croak?" SOL, I'm sure as you have unfortunately found out.
Too funny, but so true. I'll let you guys know how I make out. I just hope someone else wasn't running a odometer on my rebuild.
Don My 1941 in the Stovebolt Gallery My Photo AlbumBut I tried, didn't I? ... At least I did that. RP McMurphy The past belongs to the future...but only the present can preserve it. Besides the noble art of getting things done, there is a nobler art of leaving things undone. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,602 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,602 | | | |
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