The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Firewall or Frame Mount Power Brake Booster?

Hello Forum!

I am planing to convert my original single master break cylinder to a dual cylinder with a booster.

I found the firewall & the frame mount kits and I would like to know which one you can recommend.
If I choose the firewall mount kit, can my E-break remain in the position under the steering wheel?

1/2 t Fleetside 59

Links:
firewall: http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1947_59_Trucks/4753FBBD.htm
frame:
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1947_59_Trucks/4754BBD.htm

Apachepride,

My descision was a matter of looks. I don't like the looks of the firewall mounted set-up cluttering up the engine compartment.

I went with the original mounting position (using a set-up I got off of ebay from Pirate Jacks). It mounted up really easy. I wish I could tell you more, but I have not gotten it much past that point yet.

Good luck.

Carl

It's really a matter of looks. I chose a firewall unit for easy access.

i am with cbrackle, i have the frame mount and if done right how often do you need to access the unit? ron

A frame mount booster does indeed clean up the engine deck. I use it on my hotrod. You need to understand that a frame mount has several issues not associated with the other type. Things like master cylinder might be mounted lower that the brake cylinders and the brake lines may be higher than the master cylinder. These issues are addressed on several good web sites so you need to review them for info on such things as bleeding the brakes.

I used the frame mounted setup on my 55.The only drawback is if you have to add brake fluid to the system,as when bleeding the brakes.I used a Lokar floor mounted E brake,in my truck.Mainly for the nostalgic look.It looks good right beside the Lokar shifter.I see no reason why you could not retain the original Ebrake lever.

Just a tip ,
If you go with the firewall mount Booster ..save yourself a headache down the road and FAB up a backing plate a bit bigger than your booster on the engine side and add some support bars .....on the inside.
in my expierience the stock firewall is too thin and after yrs of pushin the pedal you will get stress cracks an eventual fail of the firewall metal .
Xtra support is needed to carry the weight of the booster/master and stress of shovin the brake pedal to the floor for STUPID HUMANS that WILL pull out in front of you .
just a heads up
Tim

Often enough for regular maintenance, right?? A low master is an indicator for leaks unseen else where!! Don't run out of fluid when you need it the most!!

The CPP unit he provided a link for, comes with a nice firewall / dash support bracket. I'm going firewall because I don't really build a truck so I can show other people what's under my hood. I build to suit me. Easy access is the name of the game for me.

Frame for me. I didn't like the additional fabrication needed to install the swing petal, plus I like a clean firewall. After all, we have to crawl under the truck to check the differential fluid, etc.
If one worries about access to the MC, cutting a hole and making an access to service it would be easier than changing brake petals.
But there's no accounting for tastes, that's why Campbell's makes so many soups.

I used a firewall mounted power MC, but only because I have reached that age that I will check it and fill it, if it is not "out of sight and out of mind".

OK, thanks to everybody! That was really a great help. I will choose the frame mounted MC because there are less modifications and I want to keep the Truck as original as possible.
But also if the MC would be mounted on the firewall, I would say it looks clean and it is not perturbing.

Quick question for everyone: I'm also considering the frame-mounted option, but would prefer to use a hydro-boost system instead of the vacumn-boost system (I'm planning on using a Diesel).

Has anyone seen a booster/master cylinder offering of this type of system, or will I be looking at modifying a stock system from a donor vehicle?

Lane

Lane:
There was a topic that covered this a few months back. Do a search.

Do a search for hydroboost.

I used one, and we have discussed it before.
Pictures of what I used are on my link below.
While it works fine, and I will continue to use it, next time I would mount the booster and MC to a separate bracket on the frame and use a long push rod from the pedal to go back to the booster.
In one of the other threads on the subject I posted links to the brackets and parts I would use if I did it again.

By the way, what diesel do you plan to use?
Grigg

Grigg,

I've been in discussion with a company in the U.S. that's working on a wiring harness for the Duramax. It'll need 12v positive and negative from the batteries (to the starter), plus 12v constant and switched power. That's all.

It's supposed to work with the LBZ and LLY models to start with, expanding to the LB7 and LMM as demand warrants it. They are still in the testing phase, but introduction is planned for the first quarter of 2008.

Lane

Have you checked with Banks? I think that they already have a stand alone system available for the D-Max.
A though on the under cab master cylinders, one could use a master cylinder with the remote reservoir. Mount the reservoir in a conveniant location and still keep the master cylinder itself under the floor. That's how I would do it if i ever change to a later style.

I second the remote reservoir.

I just read in the latest edition of Diesel Power Magazine that there is now already available a stand alone computer to run the Duramax by it's self.

I'll have to find it.

Do use a remote reservoir, I did for my truck with hydroboost under the floor, much easier.

Grigg

I got my dual master cylinder, booster, bracket, and extra long bar from Pirate Jacks for about 199$ It fit perfectly with out any modification. I would recommend the frame mount. I want a remote reservoir but not yet willing to pay the money asked for modified caps. Has anybody made their on or modified their cylinder cap to allow for a remote reservoir.

Well, if you want to throw exotic in the hat, you could always get Heidt's inside the cab master booster set up and have a clean frame and firewall while still using gravity to help you bleed those brakes!

Here are the people who supposedly can make a Duramax work without the rest of the truck.

www.exergyengineering.com and or www.peninsularengine.com/

Grigg

The firewall mount is most convenient, but the frame mount looks cleaner in the engine compartment. It boils down to what you like best. I go for the looks, since you seldom have to add brake fluid, and incidentally a pump type "oil can" works good for pumping brake fluid.

I found a frame mount master cylinder and booster for my 58 Apache. “Brothers” Website says will not work with manual transmission. “Classic parts” has the same set up and it doesn’t mention this at all. Has anyone here used a frame mount master cylinder and booster on their manual transmission truck? Floor shift

Leghorn, just start a new thread instead of dragging up a 13 year old thread. Please

According to several people I contacted will not work. Frame mounted power booster master will only work on automatic trucks. Someone previously installed one on my truck which has original column shift three speed 56 and the brake and clutch pedals contacted each other. Have since converted to a manual corvette master cylinder and bracket from POL

I know it’s an old thread, but I installed a 7 “ booster and dual master on the frame of a 51 GMC , 1 ton with PTO and 4 speed floor shift. It fit without a problem. Although you need a remote reservoir too.

PD, I'm adding 4 wheel disc brakes to my 1950 GMC. Do recall where you sourced the 7" booster end remote reservoir?

Since I'm in the market I might as well ask... Is everyone running vacuum from the intake or a dual action fuel pump? I'm looking for a power conversion and want to make sure there aren't any known issue when it comes to vacuum.

I'm running a standard 216 rebuilt with stock intake for now and was planning on running the original vacuum wiper line to the booster.