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| | | Forums66 Topics128,078 Posts1,056,024 Members48,433 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 102 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2006 Posts: 102 | Hi All, I'm messing with a 58 1/2 ton APACHE. I bought new front wheel bearings but have found that the hub is slightly worn and that the bearing race can move within the hub. Is there a cheap fix for this problem? I thought about applying "lock tight" or some other adhesive. Would shim stock work? As always thanks for the help.
All the best, Ted
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,636 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,636 | I took mine to a machine shop where they built the area the race goes in back up then turned it to fit the new race. Has worked well for nearly ten years now. Beat trying to find another hub and it also is a 58 Chevy. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Temporarily you could take a good punch and "score" the inside of the hub to tighten up the race. I have done this many time and on many things and it served me well. Don't be afraid to put some "punch" into it with the hammer and then use one of those seal/race installer tools to keep it going in straight and I think you will be ok for sometime. Just my .02. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,517 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,517 | Its kinda like knurling a piston. Ive seen it done on a hub,,youll probably be O.K. with it. Just keep your eyes open for a hub in your travels........ | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | The approved solution is a new hub. The methods mentioned above will work, but should not be considered good as new.
There is a special locktite made for filling the gap between a worn housing and a race, I don't know the number right off, but this would be a semi acceptable fix.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 863 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 863 | Its called Stud and Bearing Mount.... | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 102 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2006 Posts: 102 | THANK YOU ALL. I punched the hub and used the sleeve retainer locktite as suggested. It all worked out great, THANKS.
All the best, Ted
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 595 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 595 | have you measured the wear? loctite has one called "shaft saver" i use it and it works great pre-clean area with brake cleaner and follow directions on the bottle. don't rush it! and you will be amazed. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 | Before the Loctit stuff was around, I have even seen an arc weld bead used to keep a race in place in a hub. Needless to say, the seal didn't fit well. I just used some of the sleeve & brg mount 10 micron mentioned just last week on my lawnmower's blade spindle bearing, worked slick. | | |
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