The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Poor Reproductions: 57 - 59 Heater Control Valve

This is part venting, part warning. :mad:

I just got in my reproduction heater control valve ($44.95 from Chevy Duty.) This is a piece of junk:

• The old valve I took out (I assume it is original, or very close to it- it has 12 57 stamped on it) has 3/4" lines, the repro has 5/8". This will look pretty stupid sticking out of the firewall. I guess it is my problem to figure out how to transition the 5/8" nipple to 3/4" so that I can run the same size hoses from the water pump.
• In Chevy Duty's catalog, they write "Tubing size is 5/8" as was used on 55 - 56 trucks but will work equally well on 57 - 59's." That's a bunch of crap. With the valve they provided a 3" long stump of 5/8" hose, presumably to connect the valve to the core. It can't connect! It is too short, STRAIGHT, and 5/8" while the core is 3/4". Again, I guess it is up to me to figure out how to transition from their valve to my core. (They sell elbow hoses in 5/8" and 3/4" sizes, but provided some 5/8" drop, not an elbow. I would need a 5/8 x 3/4 to make it work, but they don't sell that.) This isn't "equally well" in my book.
• They supply a note in the bag with the valve that reads "We duplicate this part exactly from Chevrolet New Old Stock. It is identical to Chevrolet's orginal valve. However, you may notice that your original valve used a capillary tube. Chevrolet discovered that the capillary tube was not needed, and replaced it during later production with a small clip which we supply on our valve. If you wish, you may replace the clip on your new valve with your original tube."
  
  You can't say "it is identical but..." That makes it different. It isn't an exact reproduction of a 55 - 56, and it sure as heck isn't a reproduction of a 57 - 59. It simply isn't an exact copy of Chevy NOS like they state. The tubing wall is so thin it is scary. This is a replacement valve for 55 - 56, not a reproduction.

I figure to get this valve to work correctly will require me to cut the 5/8" inlet and attach a transition so that I can move the 3/4" inlet from the old one to the repro. Then I'll need to solder on some elbows and transition it to 3/4" so that a 3/4" hose will connect it to the core. I estimate it will take at least another hour plus materials to make it work.

I can have my old valve rebuilt for $89 dollars with a 1 year warranty. Why am I even messing with a repro??

I'll post pictures later on to show the issues.

Thanks for the soapbox. Buyer beware.

Bill

Youre absolutely right!!! ALL the repro crap is just that---CRAP. Im sooo sick of "just like original" i could spit nails.
So what do you do,,send it back? Yeah and lose the $$ from shipping it both ways.
Go somewhere else? they all have the same crap and same attitude.
Id better stop,,the vein on my forehead is starting to pop out. :hammering: :hammering: :hammering: :hammering: :hammering:

That's because the original was made in the USA when folks gave a hoot. That other stuff is ChiCom (Chinese Communist) manufacture.

actually the problem there is GM used a variety of sizes and configurations, and the cars and trucks used similar stuff different years - I think the repro control valve was started by Danchuk for the 55-57 cars, which use the 'other' size [whichever], and I've found truck heaters with both 3/4 and 5/8 ... also, the lack of the capillary tube is "identical" to later GM replacement parts, which change happened before the end of the heater that had them from the factory

so if you're cheesed about the part not suiting your exact application, blame GM, but that doesn't define a poor quality repro part, just goes to show you have to pay attention to what's available vs what you "need"

Bill

I know at least 1 of the parts houses has the correct valve with the 3/4" pipe size, I had to replace the one in mine. I seem to recall it was either Brother's or Harmon's.
Before you ask, I have a heater from a '59 lcf in my truck, so I changed it over to the larger hose size on the engine to match.

Bill..... www.classicautoair.com

P.S. when is the next swap meet?
Cliff59

I have two problems with the part supplied:

They say it is "identical to Chevrolet's original valve" and that it "will work equally well in 57 - 59." Both of those sentences are incorrect. The valve is a replacement, not a reproduction since it is different.

The second problem is with the quality. The copper line is extremely thin. It is going to bend/kink under any bending load and is not nearly as sturdy as the original.

I'm working the solution on two fronts. (LongBox55/Bill, thanks for the tip on the potential sources.) I cleaned up the old valve and after a pressure check on it, I'll reassemble the system with the old valve. When it leaks, I'll probably send it off to the guy who rebuilds them.

I would be unfair to Chevy Duty if I didn't mention that they are taking back the valve they sent and giving me a refund. (I'm cancelling the back-ordered parts.) I paid $12 shipping to get the valve to me, and I'll spend at least another $6 getting it back to them. This has been an $18 lesson in trusting my hunches.

Another lesson I learned is to forget about on-line ordering. I should have waited until Monday morning and talked to a person to make sure the valve was for my application, and just what "equally well" means. It would have saved the frustration of the surprise back-order, the $18 shipping, this thread, and my heater still laying in pieces on the shop floor.

Bill

Most reproduction stuff is junk, PERIOD. Brian

I've found the same thing, most re-pop parts are at best a poor copy othe originals. I found this out ordering rubber windshield gaskets for my 40. I can't beleive the difference between Steele rubbers windshield gasket and another vendors gasket. Lesson learned too!

I don't believe talking to them on the phone would have helped much. Most of these phone people can only tell you what the magazine or website sez. I've tried a few times and I have yet to discover any of these vendors that have a decent tech help line. The experienced guys at the local parts stores are almost always a better way to go for finding, describing and explaining parts.

I really cleaned up my heater control valve that I believe is from the late 1950s. Once I got the gunk off, I could read "Ranco Type H16" stamped on the bracket.

Heater control valves installed on '59 - '66 Volvo PV 444s, 445s, 544s, and 210s are also Ranco type H16. You can buy replacement Volvo valves that are supplied with the capillary tube, unlike the "reproductions" (their word, not mine) that you can buy from US parts suppliers for '55 - '59 trucks. I found a US supplier, a Canadian supplier and even a supplier in Sweden. All advertise having the Ranco type H16 HCVs.

valve image

I'm not sure if the lines are 5/8 or 3/4. These aren't cheap, usually running a little over $100, which makes the $150 NOS units at Tucker's shop (top of thread) look not so bad.

Domestically, it seems the 1965 Chrysler Imperials and 300s used this same valve, according to a help request on one of the Imperial owner forums. It looks like there are NEW valves ($105) at JC Auto for '65 - '68 full size Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge. They want a core so that they will have rebuilt units available. It could be worth a call to find out what their rebuilds are going for.

Information provided with no warranty expressed or implied! As you can tell, I'm getting a little obsessed with a good quality/good fit replacement heater control valve for my 'bolt.

Bill

thanks for the info! sorry to hear about the short stroking they tried to give you. sounds like they lost at least one customer. what pisses me off is these parts are marked up 100% from wholesale. got a friend in the business and i have read the dealers catalog. if someone tells you their not marked up 100% they are lieing through their greedy teeth.

I know this thread has become a forum for bashing a particular reproduction parts, but if it weren't for people making the parts in the first place, some of us would not have the ability to get the part. Period.

I have repro hub cabs from Jim Carter that date back to 93 and I have no complaints. I've been looking for an original hood ornament and good luck on some of those!

Sorry to hear you had a bad experience with your part. I know that happens. The collective knowledge about these older trucks is diminishing and this page is one of the few places where all the experts live.

Here's a not-so-pleasant tag-on ending:

I sent back the valve that Chevy Duty sent and ordered another from Jim Carter, after talking to the sales rep about the 90° hose that I absolutely MUST have to make this thing work. He went so far as to pull the package and verify that it does in fact contact the 90° hose as they specify (not once but twice!) in their catalog.

Valve shows up, sure enough, no 90° hose. It is identical to the one Chevy Duty sent in spite of their assurances I'd get the correct hose to attach the valve to the core.

I went to the flaps and spent about $20 to get a too-big 90° hose, some clamps, and a 5/8" - to - 3/4" hose adapter. I cut down the hose to make it work, cussing the repro supply houses, and now have a working valve.

Incidentally, the Jim Carter catalog shows they sell that hose for ~$9, less clamps and shipping. Apparently it is NOT part of their valve package, only that 2" long stub of 5/8" hose.

Bill

Bill,

I have had the same issue with Carter's, sadly enough, on a fuel pump which not only bore no resemblance to the pump pictured in their catalog, but was not even for a 235 truck installation.

I understand the issue with repop parts and quality all too well, and it is becoming harder and harder to find a supplier that can reliably supply parts, and for them to find the people that can talk knowledgeably about the part and installation in question. However, to tell the truth, I have had generally the best luck with Chevy Duty.

Glad you were able to finally come up with a solution. Have you gotten that battery holder ordered yet?

Richard

i also have had the best luck with chevy duty, but i live 15 minutes away from them also, so when i need something, i go and get it so i know what i and getting. orielly's is able to get many parts also. but i still get something that is poorly made sometimes also

Jim Carter was pretty cool about doing what they could to fix the problem. They were willing to send out the elbow hose, and when I told them I already bought one locally and modified it to work, he credited me the full stand-alone price of the hose as if I had ordered it from them. I give them credit for admitting the problem and fixing it the fullest extent that they could.

Richard- I haven't yet ordered the holder. I'm still trying to get the heater project fully complete so that I can take out my bolt and drive it! I don't want to get too many parts on the bench waiting for me. I expect to order late next week so that its arrival will match my free time availability to install it. I sure did think about the powder coated one when I was reinstalling that corroded one, though!
Bill

wahoo40 - So if I read your post correctly, I should order my window rubber from Steele? I've learned in the past that no dollar amount saved will fix the level of frustration you get from window rubber that doesn't fit correctly.

Lee - Steele does have the best quality rubber parts, but a lot of the vendors carry Steele parts, and some may sell for a bit less than the factory retail price so you might just inquire at your favorite vendor who supplies their rubber parts

OTOH they're located over your way, and go to all the major swap meets, so you may be able to easily deal direct

Bill

red58,

I was just looking at their site and they will be at AutoFair in a couple weeks... guess I'll have to make a trip by there and bring my credit card.

I just have horrible flashbacks of trying to install a back glass in my '61 Studebaker Hawk (curved on the ends... like a boat windshield) with a rubber gasket that was about an inch too long (not a Steele product). The stainless trim didn't want to stay in the channel, and when it did, the glass wanted to pop out. Then you have to try to get the whole thing on the car without things popping out everywhere. It eventually went in, but I think I used up every combination of cuss words that I know by the time I was done.

Thanks.

Lee