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| | | Forums66 Topics128,174 Posts1,057,048 Members48,458 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 56 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 56 | I have orig rear drum brakes on my '53 1/2 Chevy 3100. They've always stopped the truck, but the parking/emer brake function has always been iffy. I put new parking brake cables on, and after some adjusting and trial-and-error, found that one side (the right) isn't really expanding the shoe outward. I took the drum off, and poked around. The linings on the shoes are fair (not in need of replacement yet). The parking brake cable attaches to the so-called (from the shop manual) "toggle lever". The lever sort of pivots on the against the cast steel of the wheel hub and pushed the shoe outward, however there's a lot of space there (between lever and where it pivots aginst the hub). It looks like my problem is that by the time the cable pulls tight and pulls the lever against the hub, it doesn't really pivot/lever the shoe outward like it should. I compared left side against right, and I don't see any big differences in part shape/size/configuration. Another thing: the "extension link" that sort of connects with the lever, and would push the opposite brake shoe outward has a tremendous amount of slack in it and is in no way effective either. So somethings not right in Denmark (or Washington). Anyone out there who can help? | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | You may need to re-adjust the right cable, if there's too much slack in it, it won't be effective. You might need to adjust the service brake as well. It seems to be an adjustment problem.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 622 Member | | Member Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 622 | They make some cheap cable slack removers that just bolt over the existing cable. They have a V-shape configuration. Don't know what you call them though but any auto parts supply will have them. shouldn't cost more than a couple bucks.
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| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | Is it possible that one drum is ground out too far? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,893 Socket Breaker | | Socket Breaker Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,893 | [img] http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/ubb//edit_ubb6.gif[/img] Kevin in WA, if you click that button on your post, you can edit your post... I mention it because your topic only read 'need help with original drum brakes' but doesn't mention the year, series, etc., of your truck. Some folks know a good bit about a certain year model or body style of trucks but not so much or anything about earlier or later years. If you put the year of your truck in the topic, then the folks who know anythign about it, who see it will wander in to see if they can add anything to the thread. Just a tip... -W | | |
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