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| | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 248 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 248 | OK...I've searched the archives and haven't really come up with an answer so here goes...
I have a leak in my brakes so I'm going to replace the MC, all wheel cylinders, and all lines. I am not trying to upgrade to power brakes, just make what I have good and reliable. Here's the twist...after reading through the archives I get the impression that a dual MC is a good idea. If I put the dual MC in do I need a prop valve? Wheel cylinders on the front are 1 1/8" bore, and rears are 1" bore. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 227 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 227 | i dont see any reason you would need a prop valve. the original m/c worked front and back with same pressure so why wouldnt a dual? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 248 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 248 | I agree, but I've read some differing opinions | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | You would only need a prop valve if you were to install disc brakes up front, due to the increased stopping power of disc brakes. It would balance the braking power out to what you have now. So, I say no prop valve on a drum/drum set-up,
Scott | | | | | Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 586 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 586 | Hi,I would use a Wildwood brand prop... valve.It has a knob to "dial in" the right amount of brake to the rear.This will prevent that rear wheel lock up that happens many times with a lightly loaded pick up and good brakes.They are not that costly.The newer trucks have the lever type that increases the brakes to the rear as you add weight.
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Must be able to cook , clean , sew , tune engines and polish trucks. Must have old Stovebolt and garage. Please send picture of old Stovebolt and garage.
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