The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Also,what do you use on rusted bolts?

Can anyone tell me the best product to spray on rusted bolts and screws to help loosen them up? Thanks!

Aero Kroil

My favourite is called "Fluid Film" and it works really well. It comes in a can with a gold colored background.

Left handed drill bits.

mark.
'51 KY 3100

mark,

I have tried to spray em..the can keeps plugging.


Stuart

pb blaster

Kroil from Eastwood.com

Years ago I overheard a parts counter clerk tell a customer to slather the bolt head in Hellmans Mayonaise (he said no other brand would work)

After the guy left I asked him, "That dosen't really work, does it?" and he replied, "Nahh.. that guy's just an @sshole."

I don't know if it was related or not, but I saw that sales clerks picture in the paper a week or so later, after he was gunned down outside a bar.

For rusty bolts that are stuck, I use WD40, and when that don't work, I heat 'em up with a MAP gas torch.. it also helps to use a good ratchet and have a 6' length of pipe to put over the handle to increase your leverage!

pb blaster, for 3 days straight... a length of pipe over your rachet adds leverage, but if your bolt isn't loose all you'll do is shear the head off of it and then you're really screwed!!

I spray oxygen and acetylene at them,
Scott

From my experience Chrysler makes the best penetrating oil bar none. If you use WD-40 make certain it is in a well ventilated area. Had a buddy pass out working in the tail cone of a float plane after using WD on some electrical clamp bolts.

"PB Blaster" and another product called "Knocker Loose" I had good results with both. The later was a free sample and have not used it a lot but, when I did, it worked.

I use WD-40 and a product called "Breakaway" which works better than WD-40, but I haven't found it locally in anything bigger than a spray can. WD-40 comes in larger sizes.

i use zep 45 nc on all things stuck and hood and door latches and hinges

rh

I'm sure there are other penetrating oils that work as well, if not better. But, I use WD-40, followed by a few good whacks with a hammer. If it still won't budge, then use heat. You only need to heat metal up to about 300 degrees for it to expand. If you can get it to turn even a fraction, turn it the other way immediately. Then back, then in, back, etc. More penetrating oil, and work it back and forth, firmly but carefully. If it doesn't break off in the first half-turn, you got it made.

Warning! WD-40 is flammable!

I recently damaged a ratchet's internals by using a length of pipe on it. Fortunately, it was a Craftsman which was replaced for free. I now use a breaker bar (with pipe if needed) for hi torque application then switch to the ratchet after the bolt is free.

I never use pipe on ratchets, but I have one of those Crafstman 1/2 drive ratchets with the swivel head and 18" handle. The internals are getting loose on it. The mechanism can't take the torque that the handle can deliver. Breaker bars are always a good idea on tough stuff.

pb blaster is the best stuff

I only use PB Blaster.

I have in the past busted ratchet guts by sticking a 6' pipe on a ratchet and hopping up and down on the end of the pipe.. even busted a craftsman and snap-on that way.

Believe it or not, a few years ago I picked up a Stanley 200 some odd piece set from WalMart, and that ratchet in that set is tough as nails.

I've done stuff with that ratchet that would make you cringe even if using a breaker bar.. it's now become something of a game to see if the Stanley even CAN be broken!

PB Blaster

PB Blaster and Jack Daniels.

Two shots of PB Blaster for the nut to be wrenched, and one shot of Jack for the nut with the wrench...

lets hope he hasn't got too many bolts to undo.
I've found the best way to loosen rusted bolts is to add penetrating oil. If you can, tap the head of the bolt to brake the seal the rust has made. With screws, it's the same thing. Use the correct size screwdriver, place it in the screw and tap it with hammer.
if all else fails, drill the bolt/screw out and use an esy-out tool. Most engineering shops stock them.

Yep, pb blaster.

My process is squirt, tap, tap, tap. Wait a day and then squirt, tap, tap, tap. Repeat. Drink some Very Old Barton (JD is ok, but it is made in Tennessee, not Kentucky). Squirt, tap, tap, tap.

I have also found that a hand-held impact socket will work great after the above process if you have room.

I have used Kroil (made in Nashville Tennessee) and also automatic transmission fluid. Also, I have applied George Dickel (a proper sour mash made in Tennessee not in Kentucky). When none of these worked, I would rely on my 4-1/2 angle grinder with a cutoff blade. Good luck (cheers)

Jeff, I kinda use the same technique, but am kinda partial to Kentucky Tavern..Maybe we should all get together and discuss the pros and cons of each..I was in Fort Campbell, and if I'm not mistaken, the state line runs through the base

but the main trick, which I'm suprised none mentioned, is after the penetrating oil, ALWAYS TIGHTEN sharply first to break the rust, then loosen

Bill

Some rusted bolts are standard, and can be replaced with new ones..Then it's time for the cutting wheel...Others are unique to the bolt and have to be removed without damage..I guess it depends on the circumstances what I would use..
Pb Blaster
Big pipe with broken socket or drive
Torch
Grinder w/cutoff blade
And the BFH

Bandaids come in handy too...Steve

The very best way to loosen rusted bolts/nuts is to heat the nut with a torch, red hot, and keep spraying it with water until it dools down. You may have to do this 2 or 3 times. Do this BEFORE you spray any anything else or it doesn't work as well. This works on tight fittings, pipe plugs or anything that can be safely heated & cooled. I guarantee you that this will be a very good way to get them loose. Use plenty of water in a spray bottle & try to get the water to work down into the threads- that is the trick- flood the heated item with a water spray so the water can get into the rusted threads. Try this first, and you can stop using anything else.Let me know what you think!

The answer is all the above.....Ronnie

In really bad cases I just click on "Restore your Stovebolt to a previous time." I select a date, say 40 years ago and try that, bolts weren't as rusty in those days and they come out wasily every time. Need a fair whack Bundaberg Rum in the mechanic though.

Zacca
Australia

LOL
I use used oil and time, it always works for me. If I'm in a hurry, I shouldn't be around my bolt, but heat from a propane torch will do some good. If not, more oil and patience. The accid in used oil will eat the rust, in time.

Richard

If PB Blaster dont work,I get the smoke wrench out.

If PB Blaster dont work,I get the smoke wrench out.

Ilike the answers above but you have the ratio of oil to bourbon way off. I have found theat 4-5:1 bourbon to oil will make you forget which bolt you were trying to remove....

I use WD-40 then whack with a big hammer. If that don't work I use heat and then more spray. If I could find some Kroil around here I'd get some, guess I need to do some checking. I use to use it in the factory I worked in, really good stuff! If all else fails I break out the grinder or hot wrench and I have burned them out with my stick welder.

I use one of 2 methods as a rule.I either heat it up to a red and then loosen it while still as red as possible, or Iuse a disc grinder. If I use the disc grinder I prefer the zip cut wheel and cut from the outside in careful not to touch the material behind. If I only have a regular wheel ,I grind back and forth near the middle of the bolt, that way I have less chance of ruining the material behind.

I've had good luck heating the bolt/nut assembly up to a bright cherry red with an O/A torch, waiting for it to cool to a dull red, and then sticking a candle (or just bar wax) onto the area where nut meets thread. The wax melts into the threads and makes it very easy to turn out. I *highly* recommend doing this from the backside as wax will make the bolt head or stud much more slippery, and harder to grasp with a vise-grip or similar tool.

richard2005, do you actually believe the advice you just spouted about used motor oil? I've torn apart engines that have sat for 20+ years and have not EVER seen the internals of a motor eaten away by anything but rust...used oil protects metals, even if used oil has a PH below 7 (naking it slightly acidic) I have a very, very hard time beleiving that it will actually "eat" anything.

If you want something acidic to take rust off of parts, use a product called "naval jelly" and either mist it with water every few hours to keep it from drying out, or place a sheet of seran wrap over it after applying to trap moisture in the work area.

Oh, additionally, I just purchased a Milwaukee model 9079 18V cordless impact wrench, what a wonderful tool, makes dismantling a breeze...