The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop oil canisters---again

I have a oil canister that I planning on intalling onto my 216. The original colors were orange canister and a black lid. I'm pretty sure it was the original paint. I've since repainted it the same color. Is it safe to assume that it's a Fram? Is there a diameter that I can go by to verify? And what's the filter number that I can ask for at the parts house?

I have been using a Purolator P-51 or L20051 for years in mine. I buy them at Pep Boys.
Good luck!

Hey STepp,

My Fram is a C-30. I called fram and they still make it. It is also available at Napa and Carquest part 85021 (not sure if you have them in CA or not). The C-30 filter is taller than the others. My canister still had the stickers underneath the years of grease. I just picked up a digital camera and could try posting a shot or two if you need sticker placement etc.

You must be almost done. Keep pluggin away.

Oil canisters are fun! I use a Purolator L20701 in mine and it fits perfectly. My auto parts store now sells only Fram and their cross reference number is either C3P or C3. Neither work for me as the bottom hole is too small to fit over the shoulder at the base of the canister which holds the threaded rod.

Great discussion. It would be nice to try to first help determine what brand of filter canister is being discussed (Fram or AC). Then determine the size of the filter (don't know if all Frams are the same, but there are a few different AC canister filter sizes; diameter and height).

Steppenwoods' colors are for Frams but who knows what colors appealed to previous owners?

Does your canister drain from the side (most Frams seem to) or the bottom. (most AC seem to)?

Good luck,

Curmudgeon

TSP, the canister without the lid is 4 1/8" diameter and 5 5/8" tall. Ther's a female fitting on the side and on the bottom.

Steppenwood,

Here are some NAPA numbers that have been posted in the past.

1006 for a Fram canister.
1100 for one of the AC canisters.

Not sure what Curmudgeon is suggesting about the Fram canisters. The Frams I have seen do not drain out the bottom in terms of draining all the way to the bottom. Do they have a tube in the middle that keeps all of the oil from draining out or do they have the outlet on the side (and thus all the oil does not drain out - you need a siphon to empty the Fram canister)? The AC canister that I have on my truck drains all the way to the bottom.

Tim

I use a NAPA 1100 in my AC canister and I think its diameter is wider than than 4 1/8" diameter.

Yes, I meant that Fram's do not seem to drain to the bottom - thanks for the clarification.

I have an A/C and a Fram setting in front of me right now that bolts to the intake manifold and they both have the intake on the side and the outlet on the bottom. And are so marked.

The general concensus is that the oil is pumped in thru the fitting on the side near the top and out the bottom. However if you try to think of the route the oil takes, it seems backwards! At least to me but maybe I'm backwards. There are lots of holes in the filter and the oil has to enter it via those holes. It is cleaned (supposedly) and find its way out thru a hole in the tube down to the bottom of the canister and out. Would it not make more sense to reverse the lines and have it pumped up the tube and out into the filter, then thru the various holes and into the top/side outlet.
The reason I am asking all this is because mine was plumbed that way years ago when I got the truck and it worked fine. I had a constant oil pressure at any engine speed. after seeing many other installations and seeing a diagram, I rerouted my lines accordingly. The lines are new but now when I come to idle my pressure drops right off.

The general concensus is that the oil is pumped in thru the fitting on the side near the top and out the bottom. However if you try to think of the route the oil takes, it seems backwards! At least to me but maybe I'm backwards. There are lots of holes in the filter and the oil has to enter it via those holes. It is cleaned (supposedly) and find its way out thru a hole in the tube down to the bottom of the canister and out. Would it not make more sense to reverse the lines and have it pumped up the tube and out into the filter, then thru the various holes and into the top/side outlet.
The reason I am asking all this is because mine was plumbed that way years ago when I got the truck and it worked fine. I had a constant oil pressure at any engine speed. after seeing many other installations and seeing a diagram, I rerouted my lines accordingly. The lines are new but now when I come to idle my pressure drops right off.

Does anyone make a kit to convert to a spin on filter for the 235?

Are you asking about adapting from the canister setup to a spin on filter setup? Or removing everything and adding a spin on setup? Or... a new install with a spin on setup? Just trying to clarify, I'm sure someone in here has done it...

Hmn. I think Perma Cool @ http://www.permacool.com - the website has exceeded it's bandwidth currently - has a relocation kit that comes in different forms and pieces... but I'm sure some of the other guys in here have better ideas than that.

Then there is this article in the Tech section here on the 'Bolt:

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/full_pressure.htm

Good stuff.

-W

Woogeroo has got it right. There are filter relocation adapters that can be made to work for the 235. The 1954-1962 235s have a high pressure oil system but a bypass filter system. I have never used a spin-on filter with this type of system. People say they have used these spin-on filter adapters with no problems (search this forum for earlier discussion on this topic).

If you convert your 235 to a full flow oil filter system as is described in the link given by Woogeroo (and as was standard on the USA 1958-1962 261 engines), the relation/adapter looks like this (also, if you search this forum you will find pictures of relocated filters in other locations):

http://home.nycap.rr.com/lederman/images/OilFilter1.jpg
http://home.nycap.rr.com/lederman/images/OilFilter2.jpg

After buying my set-up from JEG'S, I found a complete set at Pep Boy's for $25.00 (hoses, fittings, and remote spin-on filter head). JEG's has a Perma-Cool remote head for $19.00 (771-1793). You will still need hoses with ends for your block and the filter head (1/2" NPT at the filter head). The 1958-1962 261 (USA engines) also have 1/2" NPT inlet and outlet holes in the block. I forget the size of the 235 inlet/outlet holes for the by-pass oil filter.

Good luck,
Tim

Let's talk a little bit more about the canister oil filter and how the oil enters and leaves the filter.

Olblu49 has an interesting story with how his lines were one way for a period when he first got the truck and then he changed them. The result was a lower reading at idle, or at least an inconsistent reading. What engine do you have, Olblu?

I have a 1956 261 engine in my 37 and when I started running a "Beehive" filter on my engine, the same thing happened. When I added the Beehive and hooked it up, with the inlet at the bottom right from the tee at the guage tie in spot and the outlet to the spot just above the pan rail several inches back - lower readings at idle. Notice I am hooking it up backwards from Olblu, but to the Beehive filter housing as it is marked.

In an effort to fix the problem, I have moved my oil pick up spot to the front of the engine at the outlet galley, normally pluged with a small "drive in plug" or threaded and pluged with a pipe plug (to the left of the timing cover about half way up). The thinking was perhaps the with the filter tied in at the guage it was affecting the oil pressure reading. It did not help and I have been scratching my head trying to figure out why this is happening.

On a related and kind of interesting note, some years back I was told that the oil lines on a 235 by pass filter were to be run reversed of a 261. I have no idea why, but I was told that. I did not believe it and have run mine with the inlet line going into the bottom and the outlet on the side as marked on a Beehive filter.

My reading at idle on a hot day is about 5 lbs. I haven't changed it yet, but now may try it the other way.

If you are using a Beehive filter, the holes are marked with the inlet at the bottom and the outlet on the side. I think that is opposite of the Fram or Purolator type of canister.

I have never found anyone who has been able to give me an answer that makes any sense on this matter.

I'd like to see if we can have some more discussion and some more input on this subject. Thank you!

Ok Bolters,
There has been much dicussion about the filter and canister. Here are things I have found. I have the standard manifold canister. I have it off the truck and sparkling clean. I have found that the oil does not go thru the filter. Our filters simply absorb oil. It is not forced thru. There are No holes in the center tube except at the very bottom. The filter sits on a cap and the crimps in the bottom of the canister. Thus the filter is above the hole or holes. The canister will not drain thru the bottom if filled with a fluid. There is a tube inside the tube. When the oil reaches a certain height it then drains down between the center tube and the inner tube to the bottom inside the canister. Remember, these filters aborb. Oil is not forced thru. As far as which line to use as inlet and outlet. I'm prone to use the bottom as an inlet because of higher pressure in the capped off tube. But,I'm not real sure yet.

Glenn,

According to Jim Carter the Fram canisters have a crimped bottom and the AC canisters have smooth bottom. I have a Fram canister and you can't miss the crimp on the bottom. Also I ordered new decals fot my Fram canister. The decal sheet states "printed with permission of General Motors Corporation". It comes with a decal that says "Inlet". It shows it being placed on the top side fitting. Frams only have one side fitting.
Glenn,