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| | | Forums66 Topics128,107 Posts1,056,225 Members48,436 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | I noticed after I'd already purchased new wheel cylinders that American Classic has rebuild kits (seems nobody else does). I thought maybe I'll buy the kits and rebuild the old cylinders and have 'em ready for down the road. So, generally speaking, is it worth trying to rebuild cylinders that are obviously very old? Or is there usually too much rust inside that honing usually doesn't work? Also, are inexpensive honing tools available? I've never honed before, have always bought new cylinders. -David | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 1,904 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2001 Posts: 1,904 | I've honed the wheel cylinders on several vehicles including my '48 and never had them leak. I even rebuilt my single reservoir master cylinder but have since smartened up and installed a dual reservoir MC. The hone is cheap and is used with some lubrication. I used break fluid the last time I did it. Maybe someone else can provide a better way.
48BigTrucks (below) has a very good point, though! 1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet 34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | In my opinion, if new is available, new is the best way to go. I had to rebuild my big truck cylinders or I would have gone new on that truck myself. Brakes are the area you don't want to skimp on, they're the most important system on the truck. There's my 2 cents worth, Scott | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | The hones are inexpenive small devices that fit on your drill. I couldn't rebuild me front ones because of the pitting. However my rear ones and the Master cleaned up just fine. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 235 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 235 | Take the old ones apart to see if they are rebuildable before you order the kits. If there is pits inside, toss em in the trash | | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 204 Member | | Member Joined: May 2004 Posts: 204 | Before I swapped mine out for discs on my '63 I had re-built the old ones using the kit offered by NAPA. They worked fine and it is a cheap solution but new is always better. All the parts stores around here such as NAPA,Auto Zone,and Advanced all carry the new ones and the re-build kits.
Mike | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 988 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 988 | Here is my suggestion. Buy new and get your truck on the road now and safe. Also buy a hone. Hone out the old wc and give a light coat of oil to prevent more rust. Save the old wc for the "next time" you need brakes. As these can be Sleeved and made new again. Just my 2 cents worth
Brian Moore 1949 3100 5 window Deluxe "Today is better than yesterday, but not as good as tomorrow" | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 310 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 310 | I wouldn't think that rebuilding your wheel cylinders is skimping. As long as they aren't pitted, they will rebuild just fine. I did all four of them on my '51 around 10 years ago, and they are still fine. They stop straight and don't leak. Also, I don't know about the rest of you, but a lot of times I find the quality of replacement parts to be questionable. I'd rather use original when I can (as long as it is safe).
-Tim '51 Chevy 3104 w/'56 235, 848 Head, HEI Dizzy, Corvette Cam, Split Manifold and Dual Carter YF's
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | Some good points and advice here, thanks. Think I'll take the old ones apart and see if there's pitting and go from there. Thanks again. -David | | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 124 Member | | Member Joined: May 2004 Posts: 124 | I cant count the number of wheel cylinders I have rebuilt with no problems. What the others say about pitting is true. Hones are cheap but when I did'nt have any money I used a piece of fine sand paper wrapped around my finger. Not recomended but it worked. Pore folks got pore ways.
I like old trucks
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 12 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 12 | Okay - I'll pile on on this topic. Useful so far. I need to hone wheel cylinders and notice that one is particularly rough. Any tolerances I should be aware of as the metal "plugs"/"caps"/"cams" or whatever they are called are a set diameter. I didn't notice any size specs.
I'll assume that honing doesn't take enough out to create gaps?
THANKS | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 | I just bought 2 new wheel cylinders for my 49. The boxes must have been in storage for years judging by the amount of dust on them. My concern is about the quality of the rubber in the cylinders. Obviously these were made decades ago and I hope nothing has deteriorated in this time. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 23 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 23 | i honed and rebuilt the master and rears on my 1951 6400. fronts were way beyond rebuild. the master and the rears had some pitting but it honed out and so far has not leaked and the brakes work okay. it is just a yard truck so no highway speeds, never gets out of second gear. i used the old oily brake pads and they do grab, but she stops like i ran her into a tree. see the pics in the link below. | | | | | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 57 Member | | Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 57 | My 2 cents worth. Never let any petroleum products touch the inside of the cylnders! You know what oil will do to rubber!(swell it up---destroy it) You can use alcohol to clean after honing, use only clean brake fluid for honing fluid, and you can use silicone grease as a preservative/assembly lube. Thirty years of doing it this way. Save your hard-earned bucks...rebuild if they're not too pitted.Tom
65 C10 292/700R4 long fleet...Gettin closer by the day.
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