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#167568 03/13/2005 9:53 PM
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I noticed after I'd already purchased new wheel cylinders that American Classic has rebuild kits (seems nobody else does). I thought maybe I'll buy the kits and rebuild the old cylinders and have 'em ready for down the road. So, generally speaking, is it worth trying to rebuild cylinders that are obviously very old? Or is there usually too much rust inside that honing usually doesn't work? Also, are inexpensive honing tools available? I've never honed before, have always bought new cylinders.
-David


Tradin' up dimes for nickels...
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I've honed the wheel cylinders on several vehicles including my '48 and never had them leak. I even rebuilt my single reservoir master cylinder but have since smartened up and installed a dual reservoir MC. The hone is cheap and is used with some lubrication. I used break fluid the last time I did it. Maybe someone else can provide a better way.

48BigTrucks (below) has a very good point, though!


1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet

34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
#167570 03/13/2005 10:00 PM
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'Bolter
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In my opinion, if new is available, new is the best way to go. I had to rebuild my big truck cylinders or I would have gone new on that truck myself. Brakes are the area you don't want to skimp on, they're the most important system on the truck. There's my 2 cents worth,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

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#167571 03/13/2005 10:01 PM
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The hones are inexpenive small devices that fit on your drill. I couldn't rebuild me front ones because of the pitting. However my rear ones and the Master cleaned up just fine.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
#167572 03/14/2005 12:04 AM
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Take the old ones apart to see if they are rebuildable before you order the kits. If there is pits inside, toss em in the trash

#167573 03/14/2005 12:49 AM
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Before I swapped mine out for discs on my '63 I had re-built the old ones using the kit offered by NAPA. They worked fine and it is a cheap solution but new is always better. All the parts stores around here such as NAPA,Auto Zone,and Advanced all carry the new ones and the re-build kits.

Mike

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Here is my suggestion. Buy new and get your truck on the road now and safe. Also buy a hone. Hone out the old wc and give a light coat of oil to prevent more rust. Save the old wc for the "next time" you need brakes. As these can be Sleeved and made new again. Just my 2 cents worth


Brian Moore
1949 3100 5 window Deluxe
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I wouldn't think that rebuilding your wheel cylinders is skimping. As long as they aren't pitted, they will rebuild just fine. I did all four of them on my '51 around 10 years ago, and they are still fine. They stop straight and don't leak. Also, I don't know about the rest of you, but a lot of times I find the quality of replacement parts to be questionable. I'd rather use original when I can (as long as it is safe).


-Tim
'51 Chevy 3104 w/'56 235, 848 Head, HEI Dizzy, Corvette Cam, Split Manifold and Dual Carter YF's
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Some good points and advice here, thanks. Think I'll take the old ones apart and see if there's pitting and go from there.
Thanks again.
-David


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I cant count the number of wheel cylinders I have rebuilt with no problems. What the others say about pitting is true. Hones are cheap but when I did'nt have any money I used a piece of fine sand paper wrapped around my finger. Not recomended but it worked. Pore folks got pore ways.


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Okay - I'll pile on on this topic. Useful so far. I need to hone wheel cylinders and notice that one is particularly rough. Any tolerances I should be aware of as the metal "plugs"/"caps"/"cams" or whatever they are called are a set diameter. I didn't notice any size specs.

I'll assume that honing doesn't take enough out to create gaps?

THANKS


'55 1st 3100 (restoring)
'63 Chevy C10 w/327 (driver)
'31 Chevrolet 2 Door Sedan
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I just bought 2 new wheel cylinders for my 49. The boxes must have been in storage for years judging by the amount of dust on them. My concern is about the quality of the rubber in the cylinders. Obviously these were made decades ago and I hope nothing has deteriorated in this time.


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i honed and rebuilt the master and rears on my 1951 6400. fronts were way beyond rebuild. the master and the rears had some pitting but it honed out and so far has not leaked and the brakes work okay. it is just a yard truck so no highway speeds, never gets out of second gear. i used the old oily brake pads and they do grab, but she stops like i ran her into a tree. see the pics in the link below.

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My 2 cents worth. Never let any petroleum products touch the inside of the cylnders! You know what oil will do to rubber!(swell it up---destroy it) You can use alcohol to clean after honing, use only clean brake fluid for honing fluid, and you can use silicone grease as a preservative/assembly lube. Thirty years of doing it this way. Save your hard-earned bucks...rebuild if they're not too pitted.Tom


65 C10 292/700R4 long fleet...Gettin closer by the day.

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