The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Parts Washer Solvent

I have this little parts washer tank that I bought used. It is a 3.5 gallon. All the auto parts stores sell the solvent in 5 gallon size. I would rather not store a bucket in addition to what's in the washer, not to mention pay for more than I need. One parts guy told me to just go buy mineral spirits by the gallon because that is all that parts washer solvent is.

Is this true?

BradB,

That is just about it. I think few major oil companies make their own thinners and solvent now. Mineral spirits, another name for plain old paint thinner would work OK. It has a high flash point which makes it safe around the shop and it's not too hard on the hands. You don't have to worry about swelling rubber or melting plastic items and it doesn't cost a ton.

We used SafteyKleen at work for awhile, I think it's a minor reformulation of mineral spirits with a major reformulation of price.

I use Chevron 51L in my "shark tank" at home, it will take paint off of anything, turn your hands bright red in about 30 seconds and have your head swooning for an hour! It's Toluene.

I have been using a product called Greased Lighting lately and it really works well. It is water soluble and not to expensive. I have been applying it with a squirt bottle, I don't see why you couldn't buy a couple of gallons and fill your tank. It does etch aluminum, I think that might mean it has phosphates in it. Gloves would be required, but it cleans greasy automotive parts like crazy.

Stuart

I use a concentrated degreaser from Harbor Freight about 5 dollars a gallon. I use about 2 gallons in a 20 gallon tank. Biodegradable and nonflammable works OK. I have an attached garage so nonflammable is big plus

Dan

I use SafetyKleen in my parts washer and I feel it works OK. I was using some biofriendly stuff from Northern Hydraulics, but I felt it did not do a very good job on cleaning the parts and it also froze-up in the winter.

Anybody try Simple Green for this?

mark.
'51 KY 3100

I've just used simple green in my new homemade parts washer, it works pretty darn good! I run it 8-10:1 with water. Works very good as an overnight soak, even pulls carbon off pistons.

I've heard of using kerosene...

Back in the late 80's, the shop I was working at tried a biodegradable orange citris based parts cleaner. It worked better than the regular solvent. The guys in the shop didn't like it that it made the shop smell like oranges and I got out voted to continue its use. I wish I remembered the name of that product because I think that stuff was great. It did remove more of the oils from your hands though.

i prefer the smell of oranges over kerosene.

I've got lots of free kerosene, though. Maybe I'll toss some Orange degreaser in with it.

Lucky you, I need to buy about 10 gallons of kero for my bullet heater and it's more pricey than diesel in these parts

My dad bought a ton of the stuff years ago when they were having all sorts of trouble with the electric company. After he bought it, the problems died down. Now the tank just gets used for cleaning and starting bonfires.

Whatever you buy, think about what you will do with the waste that you generate. And, as others have already mentioned, don't forget about any fire hazards.
At our Machine Shop, we use Safety Kleen solvent in a cleaning tank. And let them take care of the waste that is generated.
But, we also use Simple Green with a lot of success, and another biodegradable degreaser called Hotsy All Purpose Tubmate, in a heated cabinet washer.
At home, I try and use the least amount of chemicals as possible.

I went to a fuel dealer in SW Denver who has the stuff for sale by the gallon from a regular gas pump. It'll eat your hide off too.

I know that in the 80's Safety Kleen solvent was 99.9% mineral spirits, the rest was an anti static compound so it could safely be pumped through the parts washer and a concentrated green dye.

smittyschevy,

I'll bet the owner of Saftey Kleen had the green dye put in the solvent to remind him of all the money he was going to make.


Stuart

That water based stuff is fine for cleaning with a spray bottle and hose. It is poor in a parts washer because it gumms up the grease on the parts instead of cutting it. The water based stuff also causes excessive rust on parts that are not painted. It seems very caustic. I prefer solvent in the washer.

If it won't take the oil out of your skin it won't take the grease off the parts! I like the simple green and I do use some greased lighting...when I can't get to my nephew's 55 gal drum of cleaner down at the machine shop!!
It is note worthy to mention the "citrus cleaner". I generally keep some of each around the shop for differnt jobs and for cleaning the things I can't get in the parts washer!

We use plain old mineral spirits(paint thinner) in our parts washer. It works good for what we clean which is mainly old engine parts. For things that won't fit in the parts washer we use Greased Lightning and a pressure washer, it works good but it makes you gag. We have also used some cleaner from the NAPA store, I think it's called awesome orange and it works pretty good too. In the end, the best thing is whatever works for you.

Builder may mean
Citrasolv? now citrakleen
here is the site
http://www.nugentec.com/CitraKlean.htm
This maybe the parts washer solvent you used/
Pete

because of cost and safety reasons, our shop went to mineral spirits in a recurculating parts washer. works fine. disposable as easy as drainoil recyling.

I have one parts washer I run straight WD-40 in. Costs about $10 in 1 gal. cans. Works great. Smells better too. It doesn't dry as well as regular parts cleaner but it helps with some of the rust too.

I use wd40 and a walmart orange cleaner 50/50 and it works pretty good. I use carb cleaner for the tough stuff. Today there is no way would I put my hands in the stuff I used coming up in the industry.

Atomarc-

Where would a guy find some Toluene and how long does it last before it's too grease diluted to work? I really don't like cleaning and sanding small parts.

I have in the past years seen all kinds of solvent used in the shop. Safety-clean is good stuff but kind of expensive, they do however clean you vat and install a new filter when they service your washer. Karosene is also good stuff but the smell stays on you for days. All the orange stuff,green stuff, and purple stuff I have used is good for initial cleaning, at the car wash before you begin a repair or just to keep it clean. Gasoline cleans but to volital, burns your hands and will explode. Diesal stinks to high heaven and leaves an oily film. Mineral spirits work ok and is ok on your hands. You can take all the enviornmental safe crap and poor it on the ground and use the wet sand to clean your parts, it works well that way.
That brings me to what I use now. Varsol, cleans well will burn but wont explode,won't blister your hands, smell is tollerable if you like the smell of origional Gojo hand cleaner,and leaves no residue. It is currantly about $2.50 a gallon and can be purchased at most fuel distrubutors. The cool thing about varsol is most fluids, oils, grease and dirt will settle on the bottom of you vat. This leaves clean solvent for your next project.
Here is a very good way to build a cleaning vat.
Stuff needed:
1. 55 gallon drum (removable lid is better)
2. a #2 wash tub
3. enought screen wire to cover the botton of the wash tub.
4. 5 gallons of varsol
5. 45 or so gallons of water
Here is the skinny, open the drum clean out any toxic waste or undesireable stuff. Now take the tub and drill or punch 10 to 15 1/4" holes in the bottom. Move the drum to its deesired location cause it is about to get realy heavy and fill it up with water up to where the bottom of the wash tub will be when you place it in the top of the drum. Now fabricate the screen wire to cover the bottom of the tub, remember to fold the wire under around the edges so you wont poke your fingers looking for bolts and washers on the bottom of the vat. Now poor the varsol in the tub till it is a satisfactory level, (varsol floats on water) and use the drum lid to cover the top.
Notes; Varsol will evaporate but not too quickly. I have seen variations to this design that include piano dolly under the drum and a water fossett to drain out the Yucky water for cleaning the vat. And when cleaning becomes ness. just siphon off the varsol and dump the yucky water then reuse the varsol adding what you need to refill. Oh! the tub handles are in the way so fold them down as you install the tub.

rdbates,

Wow, this thread has been around some time. I just bought two 5 gallon pails of Toluene last week (for work). The price was almost $11.00 a gallon, and I purchased mine from my Union Oil rep under the name Solvent A-100.

Standard Oil called it 51-L, but that was a long time ago. Unless you really need this for a specific chore, it is something to stay away from.

It is volatile, evaporates quickly, will rip your skin up, and I believe it has links to Cancer.

If you soak painted parts in it, it will remove
the paint nicely. It removes grease almost instantly, and if you keep the container covered, it lasts quite awhile. Disposal is relatively easy as a open container will evaporate in no time.

I think better options exist on the shelves of your local hardware store, but as my dear old dad used to say, "take my advice and suit yourself".

Stuart

Atomarc,

Thanks for the reply. I'll take a look around and see what else I can find before I buy some. I have a tank with stoddard solvent but it takes some scrubbing to take off heavy grease.

Speaking of dear old dad, mine has something similar "use your own judgement"