The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts East Coast Type wheels

I have some rear wheels that need to come off of a 42 COE and I can't see any lugs. A friend of mine referred to them as East Coast Wheel type that were snow friendly. I will post some pictures if necessary, but does anybody know which type wheel I'm referring to, and how to go about getting them off? All I cee are the 8 lugs on the rear center "hub". All 6 on the truck are the 3 piece locking ring type it appears and they seem to be cast iron wheels. Thanks

If they were dayton wheels you would still be able to see the lug nuts and wedges that hold the wheel in place at the end of the spokes near the wheel. with that design you remove the lug nuts and wedges and slide the outside tire off then you have a spacer that just slides off the hub so you can slide off the inner wheel. But from your description I'm not sure this is the set up your speaking of. I've never heard of east coast wheels amuong many other things

Sounds like Dayton wheels to me, also called "open center Dayton wheels"
The 8 bolts in the center would hold the axle shaft to the hub.
The 5 or 6 nuts and wedges at the rim would hold the wheels to the hub.
I too have not heard of "East coast wheels"

Grigg

I also think you are talking about Dayton Wheels, Have heard them referred to as California Wheels and East Coat Wheels. The center cast piece is the hub the wheel is just a ring held on by chocks and nuts. The rear duals have a spacer ring between them. When reinstalling them lightly tighten the nuts from one side of the wheel to the other a little at a time and give the wheel a spin checking to see that it is seating true it's like truing a spoked wheel.
They can be a pain but are supposed to be good for brake cooling.

A picture is worth a thousand words.

In the Midwest we called them Spookers or Spookies in reference to the spokes aka a "spider".

They remain somewhat populae east of the Mississippi and are extremely strong. The biggest problem is getting the rims straight and keeping them aligned to the wheel.

I have heard them called "cast spoke wheels"
I think this is incorrect, as the hub has cast spokes, the wheels / rims have none.

The term everyone, coast to coast, will understand is "Dayton wheels"

Wow, thanks guys. Ya, I should know to post the picture first.

Here is one, not the greatest, but should get the point across.

So if I understand this correctly, once I remove the first outer rear wheel, via the outer "rim" bolts x6, I will then have some lugs exposed? It almost looks like the axel-shaft/hub bolts (8) hold a piece that sits on top of the outer, cast wheel, but we'll see. Any market for these wheels or are they what you throw on top of the scrap guys load? Thanks again for all the good imput. Tom

http://www.redemerconcepts.com/truck/daytonwheels.jpg

You do have Dayton wheels.

Can you email me some better pictures? I am now wondering if you have Dayton wheel adapters, made by Motor Wheels. They bolt on in place of your traditional Budd type wheels and allow you to use Dayton wheels. If they are not adapters then the spoked part is made as part of the hub, if they are adapters then they bolt to the hub.

If that's what they are, and you don't need them let me know, I may be interested.
Thanks,
Grigg

Hey if this is your first time taking one off be careful.The wedges can be really bound in.We use to loosen the nuts a few turns and reach in with the tire hammer and wack the lugs loose,sometimes they really popped sometimes the didn't but its good to get the tension off before the nuts are off.Been a real long time since I messed with these,if I'm missing something I'm sure someone else will chime in.

I'll still get you guys a better picture, but I don't see how this is going to come off without taking loose the little hub/axel cover. The piece that bolts there sits on top of the main part of the wheel....I'll work on pics, might be 48 hours till I get to touch it again.
Thanks for everything to everybody.

Tom

Tom coe look at the wheel see the large nuts on the outer ends ot the spokes? those are your lug nuts. If you look there should be some wedges between the wheel and the spoke. The inner edge of the wheel will have a raised area which the wedge seats against tho apply pressure to hold it in place. Back the lug nuts off and per stone cutters suggestion tap wedges with hammer then remove lugnuts the rest of the way. (Ignore the smaller bolts near the center of the hub for the time being) Once you have removed lug nuts and wedges the outer wheel should come off. After you have the outer wheel off there should be a spacer about 5 to 6"wide approximatley. It should have a lip you can tap against to drive it off the spokes. Now you are to the inner wheel it is the same wheel as on the outer except it is turned in the oppisite direction, the raised edge is turne outward so that it wedges against the wedgelike raised edge of the inner side of the spoke normally you can just start wiggling the wheel back and forth and it will slide off. You than can study the spokes and see if they are adapters or if they are part of the hub. On the front wheels they are mounted with the raised edge to the outside and flat edge inside with a slightly different type of wedge and lugnut will likely be the same size as rear. Don't know if I've confused things further but print this out and sit down by the truck with the beverage of your choice and study it few minutes and I think it will get a little clearer good luck

Additionally you asked if there was any market for those type wheels. Proably to someone restoring an older truck or trailer equipped with those type wheels. Mostly see those type wheels in use now on shipping container chasiss,but they would likely be some what wider as standard tire sizes are now wider than on a vintage vehicle

Ack.... Daytons.....

I like the daytons better than the stud piloted budd type wheels with the inner and outer nuts. Hub piloted with the single nut the easiest for me to deal with. Still waiting for update from Tomcoe to see if he got those wheels off and whether those ones on the front at least are adapters. Until Grigg brougt it up i didn't realize they had made adapters so I,m curious

My Mack has Daytons on it,and as stated in this thread they'll wobble something fierce if they aren't "tuned" when installed. The plus side is they're easier to handle because the actual rim and tire are quite a lot lighter than the Budd wheel and tire,and they're less expensive to manufacture. I think they look cool,too.
Are your tires 20 inch or 22 inch?
Speed

The real advantage is that they are a lot stronger, or so the story goes, than a Budd wheel. I know they will withstand a lot of abuse. Incidently the term Dayton I believe came from the fact that they were originally cast by the Dayton Steel Foundry. If you remember Salt Walther of 70's Indy racing fame that is his family who owned the Dayton Foundry. Maybe one of our Buckeye friends can add more to this.

I posted somewhere else also, sorry for the delay guys. I'll be back when I have a spare moment. I own my own business and I have been SWAMPED! I haven't lost interest, so I'll be back with an update, I just don't know when. First will be with better pics, then maybe a disassembly pic (Lord willing). Over-n-out

Tomcoe.

something i might add if i may, could be that i'm just gun shy now but be cautious when fooling with these especially the inside ones when your pulling the spacer off. i used to be a tire guy at a truck stop for 5 yrs. and had one of these blow up on us when we were removing it from the truck.pulled the spacer off and when my coworker reached in to pull it off all hell broke loose.he had 11 breaks all from the knees down some of them sticking through the skin.seems that the rims lip was cracked over half way around. i started letting the air out of the inside ones before i rermoved them. i started inspecting them all before i put them back together.and found quite a few cracked ones. so just be cautious and stay alert when you mess with these things.that was over 20 yrs. ago and the guy i worked with still wears an electronic device to dull the pain. as far as gettin the dayton wheels straight . the trick is to spin nuts just snug in a star pattern then start with one and tighten it and just go around in order. worked every time for me........dave