The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
4 members (Hambone, 2-Ton, Otto Skorzeny, TUTS 59), 147 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,084
Posts1,056,087
Members48,434
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#149468 12/16/2006 4:03 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
V
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
V Offline
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
I am looking for advise on what you all used to fill around the edges on both front inner fender wells? The old firetruck had stappled soft leather/rubber on the edges. It was very rotted/decayed so I removed it. Now that it is time to put the inner and outer fenders back on the cab, I'm lost as what to use. Any help out there? What did you all use? Is it really supposed to be stappled to the thin metal fillers? Here is a picture of the soft filler (circled areas) that I took off before painting: [img]http://members.cox.net/brookebailey/fenderfiller.jpg[/img]


#149469 12/16/2006 4:30 AM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
Unless they keep two pieces of metal from rubbing, I wouldn't worry about it. I don't think your truck will ever see the harsh conditions it used to operate in that neccessitated the need for those seals. I think they used to keep road grime from getting into the channel between the inner and outer fenders. I can't remember for sure though,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
#149470 12/16/2006 4:51 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
I too have been keeping my eyes open for the same seal. I will be sure to use something.
I don't have a good enough sample to know the profile of the original.
Who does?


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
#149471 12/16/2006 4:57 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
V
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
V Offline
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
Thanks. I think it was also to stop the fenders from squeaking as one drove the truck. The metal is still there including the staples. I'm going to try putting something in there but still do not know what yet. It felt like some type weather resistant foam. However it was so old and long ago, I can't remember exactly. Do the smaller version stovebolts have that same filler?


#149472 12/16/2006 4:58 AM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,552
4
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
4 Offline
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,552
You may try fashioning one from a heavy duty inner tube from a heavy truck tire. My shop is next to a Firestone dealer and I see them in the trash all the time. The heavy tire inner tube material is thicker than the bicycle or auto inner tubes. Good luck with your project. It is looking good.

Tony

#149473 12/16/2006 5:43 AM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 355
I
Member
Member
I Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 355
We got some from either Chevy Duty or Jim Carter, i dont remember which right now, and I dont recall the name of it. You will need it in a couple of other places also. I'll try to take a couple of pic's with it installed. It didnt fit the best, but was better than nothing. I used the same glue that holds the door seals on instead of the staples that were in it orignally.


Jeff
1947 Chevy 6400 2-ton
In the Gallery
1953 3/4-ton
In the Gallery
It was fun while it lasted
#149474 12/16/2006 12:59 PM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
V
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
V Offline
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
Thanks. I'll give them a call and ask as I didn't see anything in their catalogs. I'll pick up one of those truck inner tubes too and seee how that might work. Thanks again.


#149475 12/16/2006 6:55 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,186
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
5 Offline
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,186
I used an anti-squeek from Chevs of the 40's on my 1949 Chevrolet convertible. For the staples I just used heavy duty paperclips which looked almost identical.


My Trucks
Stuff I Collect
If it doesn't matter if you win or loose.......why do they keep score?
#149476 12/16/2006 7:27 PM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
V
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
V Offline
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
I just ordered the anti-squeek kit from them. We'll see if it works.


#149477 12/17/2006 1:33 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
For a permanent solution to the staples I use stainless steel TIG welding wire of the appropriate size, just bend to shape with pliers.


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
#149478 12/17/2006 1:41 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
V
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
V Offline
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
Thanks.


#149479 12/18/2006 3:55 AM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Since your working on old firetrucks why not use pieces of old firehose's. I had a friend give me a section from and old volunteer firedept that was throwing it away. It is layered and makes nice pads for for body mounts etc. I use in a lot of places. It has a rubber core and an outside layer of some type fabric that is probably some type polyester which will not rot. Just a thought for you guys.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
#149480 12/20/2006 5:19 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
V
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
V Offline
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
Thanks. It might work and it would last a very long time. Plus, I've got lots of old hose in the garage.


#149481 12/20/2006 10:37 PM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
V
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
V Offline
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
The filler arrived today. It was $12 and it is exactly what I was looking for thanks again to 55 1st suburban for telling me where to find the filler. Picture will follow once I get it installed. Thanks again!


#149482 12/21/2006 11:28 PM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
V
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
V Offline
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
Ok I've got a quick question: How do you mount the staples, paper clips or anything else you used to hold it in place? Thanks gain for your assistance. I started to install it today but as was reported above, it really isn't that great a fit. I trimed it to fit but have not figured out how or what to use to replace the OEM staples.


#149483 12/21/2006 11:53 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,384
6
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
6 Offline
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,384
I'm not sure on yours, but on my '64 fender seals I used Arrow T50 staplegun staples 1/2" long. They fit into the OE holes & I installed them w/needlenose pliers, using a hammer for final tightening. Brian


My \'64\'s in the Gallery
Pictures in my Photobucket
1964 C10 Custom Cab 350/700R4
1964 Suburban 350/700R4
1979 Ford F350 4x4 400/c6
#149484 12/22/2006 12:42 PM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
V
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
V Offline
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
I think I have one of those in my garage. I'll take a look and give it a try. Thanks.


#149485 12/23/2006 4:35 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
I use stainless steel wire, bending them to shape with pliers, install them with your fingers, and then fold them over with pliers.


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
#149486 12/23/2006 9:53 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,186
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
5 Offline
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,186
We used the 3M gasket glue to hold the anti squeek in place then used the big paperclips more or less for looks. This is the second car I've done this on and they haven't moved at all. As with most "restoration" parts the fit can leave something to be desired. Just do your best and take some time. It will work for you and look like a factory job.


My Trucks
Stuff I Collect
If it doesn't matter if you win or loose.......why do they keep score?
#149487 12/24/2006 3:42 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
V
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
V Offline
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,602
Good advice. Thanks.



Moderated by  69Cuda, Super55 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0