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#1473095 10/29/2022 11:19 PM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 313
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 313
Good Saturday evening bolters!

The left bedside on my 51 is rattling while driving, and if you look at the attached photo, you can see the gap between the angle bed floor strip and the bed side. Anyone have a suggestion on how to take up the gap and or stop the rattle?

Thanks,

Kevin
Attachments
Left bed side.jpg (161.2 KB, 104 downloads)

Last edited by kthomas; 10/29/2022 11:39 PM.

1953 3100 with 1957 235, T5 and 12 bolt 373 rear
kthomas #1473098 10/29/2022 11:29 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Kevin

It looks to me like the angle strip has pulled loose from the bed side. It would have been spot welded on from the factory.

Unfortunately, without repainting, the only solution I see is to drill holes and put some bolts in to secure it to the bedside. Is this an original bedside that you've restored and painted, or an aftermarket one that came with the angle strip attached? If the latter, I would contact the supplier about it.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
klhansen #1473099 10/29/2022 11:34 PM
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by klhansen
Kevin

It looks to me like the angle strip has pulled loose from the bed side. It would have been spot welded on from the factory.

Unfortunately, without repainting, the only solution I see is to drill holes and put some bolts in to secure it to the bedside. Is this an original bedside that you've restored and painted, or an aftermarket one that came with the angle strip attached? If the latter, I would contact the supplier about it.

Good point on the weld, I had forgotten that was how the angle strip is secured. I bought the truck already restored and I am not sure it the angle strips are original or aftermarket.

Thanks for the feedback.

Kevin


1953 3100 with 1957 235, T5 and 12 bolt 373 rear
kthomas #1473121 10/30/2022 2:01 AM
Joined: Sep 2010
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K
'Bolter
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Just a thought most new ones are glued together, maybe if it is clean between the parts some of that panel bond stuff may work. I know absolutely nothing about the stuff but seen a documentary on how new trucks are glued together on a lot of the panels .


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
"The Journey"
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kthomas #1473122 10/30/2022 2:09 AM
Joined: May 2015
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Panel bond may work, but figuring out a way to push the parts together might be difficult. Might be worth a try.

Shall we call this the Kevin - Kevin - Kevin thread? grin

Last edited by klhansen; 10/30/2022 2:10 AM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
kthomas #1473158 10/30/2022 1:49 PM
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,190
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 5,190
You just fill the gap with black silicone and let it dry a few days, that will take the rattle out. Panel bond would also work, but since it's not a working truck, you don't really need the strength of panel adhesive. Can you get a bar clamp under the bed and above the frame rails?

kthomas #1473163 10/30/2022 3:22 PM
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,289
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
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I'd suggest you drill a hole through the angle and bedside and pull it together using a pan head bolt with the pan head on the "inside". If the nut is visible on the outside ( not under the fender ) use the shortest bolt possible then use touch up paint to "hide" the nut or just paint the nut/washer flat black to reduce visibility. Ok, it's no longer the Kevin-Kevin- Kevin thread.


Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
"You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
Dusty53 #1473239 10/31/2022 12:13 AM
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K
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Dusty53
I'd suggest you drill a hole through the angle and bedside and pull it together using a pan head bolt with the pan head on the "inside". If the nut is visible on the outside ( not under the fender ) use the shortest bolt possible then use touch up paint to "hide" the nut or just paint the nut/washer flat black to reduce visibility. Ok, it's no longer the Kevin-Kevin- Kevin thread.

LOL, heck yeah!

Kevin


1953 3100 with 1957 235, T5 and 12 bolt 373 rear
kthomas #1473240 10/31/2022 12:14 AM
Joined: Mar 2004
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K
'Bolter
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Thanks for the suggestions guys, I appreciate them! I may end up drilling a couple holes on each side and using panhead bolts.

Kevin

Last edited by kthomas; 10/31/2022 12:21 AM.

1953 3100 with 1957 235, T5 and 12 bolt 373 rear
Dusty53 #1473241 10/31/2022 12:18 AM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 313
K
'Bolter
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K Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 313
Originally Posted by Dusty53
I'd suggest you drill a hole through the angle and bedside and pull it together using a pan head bolt with the pan head on the "inside". If the nut is visible on the outside ( not under the fender ) use the shortest bolt possible then use touch up paint to "hide" the nut or just paint the nut/washer flat black to reduce visibility. Ok, it's no longer the Kevin-Kevin- Kevin thread.

Thanks Dusty, I think that is what I am going to do.

Kevin


1953 3100 with 1957 235, T5 and 12 bolt 373 rear

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