The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
1 members (klhansen), 92 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,049
Posts1,055,741
Members48,426
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#146555 04/23/2006 12:13 AM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 33
M
New Guy
New Guy
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 33
So, I've just gotten my new 1950 4100 back from Mo. It has had a fair amount of restoration and a semi-custom aluminum bed. The bed is spaced out from the frame (to clear the wheels) with what appears to be scrap lumber pieces; and there are several apparently fabricated U-bolt like pieces holding the bed to the frame. This seems kind of skimpy to me. I really couldn't find a picture of how the stock (platform)bed is supposed to attach to the frame; and I don't know how folks typically attached aftermarket beds. Any information on this would be appreciated.

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,987
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,987
That's pretty much it. Usually some U-bolts or some type of threaded rod clamps are used. On a flat bed we put on one of my International trucks last summer, we laid down a piece of 1x4 board on the frame first, then clamped the bed down. The reason for the wood was, that there were some rivet heads on the topside of the frame rails, such that the steel channel would not fit flush to the frame. By using the 1x4's, we were able to drill holes where these rivets were, and provide a flat surface to clamp the bed to.
(Hope that made sense!!)


Rich
1947 Loadmaster
1947 Chev. Loadmaster
1959 Chev. Viking 40

Life is short--eat dessert first!
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 363
4
Member
Member
4 Offline
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 363
That's how mine is attached.

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
O
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
O Offline
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
The factory approach to mounting a flat bed on one of these trucks is basically what you describe. Take a look at an assembly manual and it will show the wood and ubolts.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 926
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 926
The wood "runners" also help prevent squeaks and wear as the bed and frame flex and twist. don't do it like my 62 is-the PO welded the back of my bed to the bumper and welded the bumper and the front of the bed to the frame.
Speed


1954 GMC 350
1957 GMC 1/2 ton
1962 Chevy C-30
1952 Chevy 6400 dump bed project truck
'98 Harley FLSTC
'66 Pontiac Catalina
'76 Chevy 1 ton Duallie
'84 Bronco II
'78 Dodge W-200
'81 Toyota 4X4 truck
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 33
M
New Guy
New Guy
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 33
OK that's interesting. I'll still probably have to replace the wood (looks old, doesn't seem to fit right). Does anyone know what the preferred material would be? Possibly pressure-treated lumber, to reduce rot? On the U-bolt like fasteners, what typical grade/size bolts are used?

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
You should probably use just normal white oak. pressure treated is pine and soft, and the oak will be more rot resistant it this case, how much does it rain under your bed?

Go to a big truck shop and have them make you some u-bolts similar to how they would make them for your rear axle, you probably won't find them in just the size you need any where else. the truck shop will have some advice also.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 355
I
Member
Member
I Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 355
On the treated wood use..dont. Appox 2 yrs ago the goverment banned the CCA treated lumber we all used for yrs. In its place we now have ACQ treated lumber. This stuff is nasty, and will eat most metal that come in contact with it. Fastening it requires the used of coated or galvanized hardware. It will eat right though a common nail or bolt with a few years. Its causing a lot of trouble in the home building industy because of lack of knowlage by the contactors.
For use on trucks there are now some lumber coming out, using a differnt kind of treatment that doesnt require any special fastener, but its pricey. Another thing one might do for a bed is use cedar or one of the vinyl decking products on the market.
On the frames all our yard trucks use white oak. On trucks with tied down beds we use 5/8" U bolts, made from grade 8 rod stock. Double nuts are also a good idea.


Jeff
1947 Chevy 6400 2-ton
In the Gallery
1953 3/4-ton
In the Gallery
It was fun while it lasted
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,971
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,971
I was thinking about using untreated lumber that was thoroughly dried and coating it with bedliner stuff like Line-X. Anybody tried that?

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 33
M
New Guy
New Guy
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 33
I just got my fresh off the press 1947-1954 Truck Facotry Assembly Manual. I was hoping there would be diagrams showing how various bodies are attached to the frames. BUT all the diagrams I see are without any bodies. Am I missing something, or do I need a different kine of assemby manual?

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,987
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,987
Most of the bodies, except for the pickup beds, were made by other aftermarket manufacturers, and therefore would not likely be shown in the Chevy manuals. But in most cases, the procedure would be as outlined above.


Rich
1947 Loadmaster
1947 Chev. Loadmaster
1959 Chev. Viking 40

Life is short--eat dessert first!
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
O
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
O Offline
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
Quote
Originally posted by markk:
I just got my fresh off the press 1947-1954 Truck Facotry Assembly Manual. ... BUT all the diagrams I see are without any bodies.
I know I've seen those pictures, and I thought it was in the Assembly Manual. I also have a GMC maintenance manual, I'm now wondering if I sent you in the wrong direction, and its actually the repair manual.

If I did, I apologize. But you'll be glad you have the assembly manual!


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 33
M
New Guy
New Guy
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 33
I AM happy I have the assemby manual. And I think I know how to proceed on the job. But those diagrams must exist someplace.

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 27
D
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
D Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 27
With an aluminum bed it sounds like your truck may be more of a custom than bone stock appearing. I don't know where to get them(and it probably won't be cheap), but I have seen some approx. 1X4 teflon strips used on some type of machinery that would likely still be there when the carcheologists dig up the remains of your truck thousands of years from now.


Insert clever statement here:
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 65
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
S Offline
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 65
Take a look at this link http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/1999_BB/MDPDF/C.PDF
Page 50-53.

Gives the best info on mounting bodies. GMUpfitter.com is the best source of late model tech info on GM Medium Duty Trucks and, as a GM salesman, I use it almost every day.


51 Chevrolet Canopy Express
02 K25 Duramax Crew Cab
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,733
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,733
Another type of insulator, or issolator material often used on heavy dump bodies is a rubber strip of about 5/16-3/8" x 3" of 90 durometer rubber. It's available from industrial supply houses. Old rubber belting could be used also for your project.


1953 Chevy 5-window 3100
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Picturetrail

Dave
Engine & Driveline Moderator

If you can't make seventy by an easy road, don't go. ~~ Mark Twain

Moderated by  69Cuda, Super55 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0