The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Suggestions on radiators for a 261

I'm wrapping up my 261 build for my '51 3100 and am looking for recommendations on radiators. I'll be using a 235 fan on a short shaft water pump.
A stock radiator works but since the current needs replacing I was going to try to find something that bolts in and offers improvement over stock while keeping a somewhat stock-ish top tank look.

Don't know about the stock-ish top tank look but I've been using an aluminum 3 core radiator I bought from a seller using Amazon as his sales platform and an aluminum shroud/Spal 2070 cfm fan & adjustable thermostat combination made by Old Air Products (in Ft. Worth) and it has been excellent. You can spend a lot more for a radiator, but I don't know why you would.

https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/50-205185-16shp-universal-fit-fan-shroud-kit

Personally, I'd get rid of that stock fan...especially if you're at all considering adding A/C. I did and am very happy. The water pump should last longer without having to spin a crude and probably imbalanced fan around and it is quieter and has less vibration. As you know we have very hot summers and often slow moving traffic here in DFW.

Can't remember but don't think the seller was the same, but basically this radiator:
https://www.amazon.com/Blitech-ALUM...7QMG9NPT/ref=psdc_15725431_t2_B074SD5Z9D

Highly recommend US Radiator. Stamped top, and options for aluminum or copper/brass, and they also offer different units for engine swaps, etc. I had previously used a nice aluminum radiator from Auto City Classics in a '53 Bel Air (stamped top, so looks OK, lifetime warranty), but it was not a bolt in with the stock 235, and took a little work to relocate 1/2"-3/4" forward to clear the fan. The US Radiator products are bolt in. I sourced mine through Walton Fabrication. Todd is easy to work with, and gets considerably better (lower) than list pricing.

I thought about using an electric fan but I'd set it up as a pusher on the outside. Other than being painted pontiac blue metallic, my build has a very '50s period correct look to it. That said, I'm definitely making a shroud no matter what I use.


I'm not a fan (pun intended) of the welded top tank.


So I saw the stock looking stamped tank option from US Rad/Desert Cooler but I wasn't sure about the quality. I read a lot of reviews that said the craftsmanship was sub par and they leaked from vibration shortly after being installed. However, I do like that they are aluminum and that they are a two row w oversized tubes.
You haven't had any issues w it?

Pusher fan is a last resort.

Blue', I got the copper/brass "standard core" US Radiator unit, and no issues to date. I've also heard good things from folks who have run the aluminum radiators, but no direct experience.

FWIW, I would not recommend an eFan for a stock setup. These engines tend to run cool if all is good mechanically, and in any event, the stock fan will move more air than an eFan (at some expense in power loss, of course). If you decide to go eFan, recommend SPAL fans, pull style. Panic has it right, pusher fan is a last resort since they block airflow when cruising (when no fan is needed for sufficient airflow). Hope that all makes sense.

Doug

Got my Walker couple years ago for $200 bucks and came with a nice radiator cap. (its aluminum.) my 261 can sit in my shop and idle for a long time and never run hot.

Useful for cooling an A/C condenser in conjunction with a puller on the back side of radiator. Puller (for radiator) cycles on/off with thermostat as needed, pusher for condenser cooling is on anytime compressor cycles or as dictated by 3 wire pressure switch so as to keep the psi of A/C system within reason and add life to it. If your condenser doesn't get enough air, the pressure will get too high and damage things...expensive things. Adding a pusher is a cheap and smart way to avoid trouble.

Agreed.


Thanks for the reply Doug. I would expect the quality to be similar.


I really like the Walkers. Their tank is the only non-stamped one I like. $200 is a steal!
Which model do you have?


No AC here. I got wing windows. lol.

If you might be considering changing the radiator/etc, you might want to otherwise consider installing Pre 68 Dave’s water pump relocation plate. The cooling “efficiency” will be much better with the fan located centered on the radiator.

http://chev235guy.blogspot.com/2013/08/1955-62-water-pump-relocation-adapter.html

I have the original radiator in my 53, meant for a 216, now with the 261 in it, it will spew coolant with a 4lb cap and 50/50 antifreeze after traveling a good while then idling for a prolonged time in 80+ temps. I might try a pusher fan, it will conceal nicely. Thinking it would be nice also to have it re-cored for a 4 cores too. Like to keep the stock tanks. But first I will install a puke tank to catch the coolant.

sstock

What year 261?

If 1955-2nd or later, did you use the adapter for an earlier water pump?

http://chev235guy.blogspot.com/2013/08/1955-62-water-pump-relocation-adapter.html?m=1

Too far along at this point to drill into the block again so I'm using a new short shaft pump designed for the '56 engine. I will also be using a custom made shroud that should help negate the offset positioning of the fan.

Yup, I have Dave's relocation adaptor so the fan sits nicely. Maybe I should look for the bigger diameter balancer to speed the water pump up?

One can use factory parts with the late water pump. Here's what I did: found a 6-blade truck fan in a wrecking yard mounted to a 327 V8. Took the fan and water pump pulley home measured the difference in the offset between the V8 pulley and the 6-cylinder pulley. Bought a *new* water pump and pressed the flange further onto the pump shaft by the difference between the pulleys. Already had a four-row radiator out of a 2-ton AD so I modified its mounting flange to drop the radiator enough so the bigger fan would clear the lower radiator hose AND I mounted it on the front side of the radiator hoop using only three screws not six. It is possible to do this without putting the radiator in front of the hoop but you will skin your knuckles every time you take the fan bolts out, which you will have to do to change the belt(s). It's been like that for 25 years and never overheats, even in hot weather pulling a camper in the mountains.

Later I installed air conditioning using one of Patrick's bracket kits. I found that one belt would not drive all the accessories. Belts lasted about 5,000 miles tops. So I modified the bracket setup to accommodate a two-shiv crank pulley from an outfit in California and a two-shiv water pump pulley for Chev V8, specified for A/C. It's 10% smaller than non AC. So now I have two belts to drive the A/C and water pump/fan. Still need two belts to drive the alternator. That belt slips under heavy load. I'll have to modify that bracket. There are better brackets from which to start, like from the hot rod AC suppliers.

My '46 261 and Vintage Air, using the stock radiator out of a 2 ton, nice and thick, no troubles over several years. Also have a pusher fan that I don't switch on unless in traffic or really hot days. Has the low water pump, had to whittle fan down to clear everything, would have used pre68Dave's piece had I know about it back then, Think I restored this truck about 1990, been making changes all along the way.

FWIW, I am running the four-row repro radiator from Jim Carter's in my truck with a 261. Stock water pump in the correct position and the original fan. I'm quite pleased with it. I found an NOS overflow tank at Winchester one year so I'm not sure if it burps much.

"Stock water pump and the original fan" ...stock for the 261 or for your '49 truck?

I plan on installing an overflow tank too.

I am running a 216 radiator and 216 fan on my 261 (with adapter plate to relocate the water pump), and I have run my truck in 100 degree temps, idling at stop lights, etc. and no problems yet. I bought the radiator 5 years ago from Jim Carter.