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I have an 41 1/2t and am putting in an smallblock would like to keep the org steering I have a set of Hooker Block Hugger Headers and they won't fit HELP

My1941, this has been beat to death a short time ago but not sure which forum. Maybe the general truck talk forum. Do forums search and you will find it. In the meantime, from memory, it seems someone use a maniold off the 265 V8 engine off the driver side and said it would work. There was also a mention of another way but can't remember. Its here somewhere. Happy hunting and good luck.

One person somehow relocated his steering box an inch and a half over, and then was able to clear headers. He said he "shimmed" it over, which didn't make any sense to me. I asked for more details or pictures and got no response.

You're probably going to have to invent something and relocate it over. That guy heated his firewall cherry red and then moved the steering shaft over...which seemed like kind of a dumb way to do it. Flaming river sells U-joints for just that purpose, and if you relocate the steering box, all you have to do is u-joint the steering shaft.

You could conceivably mount the V8 so that it's not directly on the centerline of the truck. You've got to weld the motor mounts on it anyway, so why not shift the motor over an inch or two? You'd have to do the same with the transmission, and the driveshaft would have u-joints to correct the slight shift over to the diff...no big deal there. But I personally think it would be simpler to shift the steering box over than it would be to relocate the drivetrain over.

And GM's done that with other drivetrains. The 1963 through 1982 Corvette had the centerline of the drivetrain shifted slightly on the passenger side...probably to clear the steering box mounted on the framerail on those cars too. Also helps to counter-balance driver's weight.

The original steering box and column in an AD truck is solid from the steering wheel to the frame. There's no U-joints. To shim the box away from the frame it also pivots into the firewall since it stays attached at the dash. You have to modify the firewall where it passes through someway. So it's not a "dumb" mod., it's the only mod. when doing this type of steering box relocation.
Scott

Sorry Scott, I should not have referred to it as dumb. I did not mean to insult. Heating the firewall cherry red seems remarkably dangerous to me.

But it is possible to cut the steering shaft and install a U-joint. That is what I was getting at.

I saw someone with an AD truck that installed the steering box on the outside of the frame rail, in the wheel well, and did exactly what I said, cut the steering shaft and added a u-joint. Then he made a longer steering shaft from the u-joint to the steering box. I think he had to use the steering linkage from a 60's Chevy pick up truck though, with the box that far away.

If you were the person who moved the steering box over an inch and a half, do you have any pictures illustrating how it currently looks, so that I can see what you mean by shimming the box over?

I didn't do it that way, I installed a mid 70's 4X4 truck steering box ahead of the axle and used a tilt column from a Monte Carlo, making a new steering shaft to go in between. Keep in mind this was done on a 1 1/2 ton, I haven't done a little truck yet. I'm going to go the "Nova front clip" route whenever I get the time to work on the pick-up.
Scott

Shimming the box over means you just unbolt the steering sector from the frame and stuff whatever stock (I've seen wood used) you want between the box and the frame to get the sector away from the engine and frame.

You might take a look at the left manifold that came on several years of Chevelle and most trucks from the mid 70's. It drops down below the spark plugs and has an outlet near the rear of the manifold, about 2/3rds back. Someone did a post a while back that it was the way to go for AD trucks. It might work on the earlier ones also.
Classic industries has a good selection in their catalogue. Fred

I moved the original box back, the top rear hole became the front hole. The steering shaft inside the tube is 3/4” solid shaft which is the same size they use today. A double D is a ¾ shaft milled down, or you can pin a joint, damper or coupler it just depends on what you want to use for the column. You will need to lengthen the drag link. A word of caution here you want to keep the box centered. Last fall winter there was a few discussions on adjustable drag links to center the box and I have changed mine to an adjustable drag link.

That's a great idea.

When you lengthen the drag link to compensate for the rearward move of the steering box, you'll also be changing your ratio. So that would make the steering significantly more or less sensitive?

Lengthening the drag link has no bearing on the steering as long as it is parallel with the ground. If the Pitman arm is changed that will affect the steering ratio, i.e. longer Pitman arm makes for quicker steering (and more steering effort), shorter Pitman makes less effort but slower ssteering.