The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Steering wheel puller

From time to time a thread is started about how to pull a steering wheel. This is what I use on my '38. It's a universal puller with "J" hooks.

You can rent them a FLAPS and then get your money back. I used the old methods, loosen the nut to the top of the bolt to protect the threads then put your knees under the wheel and press up while hitting the center bolt.

Thats what I did Ron....until I got rich enough to buy a puller....actually, I think my nephew gave it to me for my b'day!
I still have it in my box. Good pic Tiny.

Leaving that nut not only protects the threads, it will save your teeth too!

I used to use the knee method when I was more flexible.......

The correct two bolt style puller can be purchased for $8.00-$20.00

Or

Rented ( loan) for no cost at the parts store..........


Then theres no chance of damage to the plastic or rubber material on the wheel.


The $20 puller kit can used on other items as well.

I didn't know there was a puller designed for that application. Got a link?

I bought a very expensive steering wheel for the truck and within a very short time, the horn would blow sometimes then most of the time when you went around the corner and it was embarrassing. So I installed a button under the dash to the left of the steering not bad but a little inconvenient when you need it in a hurry, like blowing a horn at a pretty woman. I am thinking of getting one this winter but I want to take the center ring off and see if the wiring is still in the wheel. I am not sure how difficult it will be to feed the wire back up.

I use one like this that is 2-bolt capable, works slick, no damage.
https://www.harborfreight.com/Bolt-Type-Wheel-Puller-Set-62620.html

Not the same brand but that's what I use. I just replaced the threaded bolts with J bolts. That way I didn't have to drill out & thread the holes & ruin my horn function.

The AD wheels have the treaded inserts in the wheel. The horn function easily separates due to the spring loaded contact/insulator in the wheel.

I just took a piece of steel bar and drilled holes in it the same distance apart as the threaded holes in the steering wheel. Then put a couple screws thru those holes and threaded them into the steering wheel holes, tightening each in an alternating fashion until the steering wheel popped right off.

I guess a little clarification is in order. My method works quite well on vehicles with the "S" wire type of horn button. The set up is pictured on my '38. As with everything. Use it if it works for you, don't if it doesn't. It's an option for those who need it. I'm aware that it won't work on every vehicle. I thought the "if the shoe fits wear it, if it doesn't don't" connotation was obvious but I guess not.