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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 149
J
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I apologize if this has been discussed before but I'm going to install my Interior firewall and floormat soon.
I have some minor trimming to do on the firewall first , but does the firewall go on top of the floor mat or
the mat on top of the firewall where they meet/overlap. I can see it going in either way but would like to do in correctly.
I'd even appreciate a photo if someone has the time.

I'm also covering the entire firewall and floor with "FatMat" for sound and heat.

1948-3100

Thanks a bunch
Jeff

Joined: Oct 2016
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N
'Bolter
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What kind of firewall cover are you using? I bought the aftermarket plastic one, and it was not a very good fit and I had norther choice but to mount it over the floor mat. I shoulda bought the cardboard one!


~ Dave
1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission
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Dave

I also am using the aftermarket plastic one, trimmed up the side and now need to adjust\trim both upper corners to raise it up.
I agree it;s not a very good fit, but should be fairly durable once it’s installled and easy to clean.
Jeff

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Jeff, that was the reason that I decided to go with the plastic- I am building a driver, not a show truck, and wanted something very durable. Mine does not sit over the center hump very well; other than that, the fit was okay. I'm sure that putting Dynamat on the firewall didn't help the fit, either! But boy, is it quiet now...


~ Dave
1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,289
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
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As Original, the floor mat rests over the firewall cover. I too installed the "plastic" firewall cover and the fit is not good just to the right of the steering column. I'm not sure why there is a different part number used on the 54- 55 1st. Anyway, its installed and I'm not going to go to the trouble of replacing it.


Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
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I used the plastic cover, over Noico sound deadener
on the firewall, then put the rubber mat over. Looks and fits good
Attachments
image.jpg (58.47 KB, 207 downloads)


NHluvstruck...
1951 3100 5-window,.sold, regretted
https://stonefacegarage.wixsite.com/mysite
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On my panel, I used the ABS firewall cover and although I was not optimistic it did work out pretty dang good. I put the rubber mat up and under it just as a personal choice. Maybe its because I used the ABS but I like the neat clean cut line with the rubber tucked under it and the look it gives.

Thanks for those pictures Brad.


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I prefer the rubber firewall cover available at either Jim Carter or LMC, or both, I can't remember. It has the jute insulation attached to the back of it and is flexible and fits. The first you need to do is throw away the giant cheesy plastic push pins that come with it and cut slits in it so you can use the original retainers.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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J
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Thanks so much for everyone's response and excellent photos. My truck is going to also be a driver so I'm not going to get to no doubt go with the overlap that
I get the best possible fit. That hump in the plastic firewall cover is a stickler to deal with but I think all I can hope for is that I get it trimmed half way close.
I have read that those plastic push pins are a no go also.
Thanks again

Jeff

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Here's a photo I just discovered with the "cardboard original" style inner liner. Looks like the Ranco control valve mounts on the outside of the cover. I imagine I'll have to cut a slot out for the heater bracket!

Brad
Those photos are great, esp like the one where the guy is brushing on what I assume is a black polish to the pedals.

Attachments
1953 fresh air 4.jpg (17.57 KB, 234 downloads)

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Finally applied the "Fat Mat" on the firewall, floor and under the seat. After numerous insertion of the plastic(tough stuff) firewall with the jute backing I got it installed with a little help from trimming and a heat gun to reform the hump. Next was the rubber floor mat aligning and cutting the holes for dimmer, parking brake, brake, clutch and the accelerator pedal. I discovered that locating all the holes in the firewall, after I got the fit I wanted and temporarily clamped into place, was best done with a #8 finish nail heated up with a torch. It marked all the holes I needed to cut out and even marked the correct locations for the push pins. I also used the same technique with location of penetrations in the rubber floor mat. All in all I'm quite happy with it's appearance. Now it's time to start putting back in everything I had to remove.
Attachments
IMG_0034.JPG (47.89 KB, 184 downloads)
IMG_1393.JPG (26.32 KB, 190 downloads)
IMG_1391.JPG (22.15 KB, 180 downloads)
IMG_1390.JPG (26.52 KB, 178 downloads)
IMG_1392.JPG (37.6 KB, 177 downloads)
IMG_1394.JPG (17.25 KB, 164 downloads)

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Former BMW Rider
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Jeff,

That looks great! You should be happy with those installations!!

Where did you get the floor mat?


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown
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Andy

Thank you! I am pleased and I'm "happy" it's done!
Floor mat and the firewall came from Classic Parts!
Just finished getting the heater installed today! Yeah

Jeff

Joined: Jan 2013
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I was skeptical about the plastic cover, it needed trimming on the upper corners and the prefitted trying to align as many pushpins as possible. Some were off, but I made it work satisfactorily.
Attachments
IMG_0914.jpg (44.04 KB, 142 downloads)
IMG_0916.jpg (30.08 KB, 146 downloads)
IMG_0918 (1).jpg (44.93 KB, 136 downloads)


1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done
In the DITY Gallery
Video of the 261 running

1964 GMC 1000
305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
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sstock,

Looks great, none of my pushpins lined up either.
As far as the other marked cut outs for heater, control, misc.
grommet holes they were all off too!

Jeff


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