The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline How To - Remove Rear Drums 1951 Chevrolet 1/2 Ton Truck

Need some help/tech tips in removing rear drums on 1951 Chevrolet 1/2 Ton Truck. In my instance, I've already removed all the brake lines, master cylinder, etc. when I had the chassis sandblasted, so there is no fluid pressure in the system. I've also disconnected the parking brake cables from the rear wheels. I've removed the tires and tried tapping the Drums but the won't slide off?? The wheels turn/rotate freely, just can't seem to get the Drums to slide off, there must be another step I'm missing?

Welcome to Stovebolt!

I would try and use a brake spoon to back off the shoes from the drum. Bet it slips off then.

Looking at your location, I too live in the Burg. If you have trouble let me know, be glad to come help!

Many thanks for this info. I don't have a brake spoon, but would that be used to pry between the drum and the dust cover/hub? Can you message me your phone, I will try and give you a call this week.

I will send you my info when you can send and accept PM's. I do not recall how many post you need.

But the brake spoon goes into the opening where the wheel cylinders are located. You use the spoon or screwdriver can work, to turn the shoe closer together so you can remove the drums.

Welcome to the Stovebolt Babbyalton,

I'm not too far from you either. And SWEET is an awesome mechanic. He knows a thing or two about all of our old trucks, but a LOT about the 51!

I've had the drum issue many times before. Not sure on the 51, but on my later version, you can also remove the top pivot bolt (not its real name, I am sure) and/or remove the bolts for the wheel cylinder from behind the backing plate. The issue for me has usually been that the shoes rust solid to the drum or they have created a channel in the drum that makes them near impossible to pull off the normal way. Since yours spin, that's probably what you're dealing with. My star adjusters (the thing Chris wants you to turn with the spoon) were both frozen solid with rust as well. Removing the cylinder bolts will let the guts fall into the drum and the whole thing should come off.

If that fails, SWEET and I can come over with a bigger hammer...

-Jim

I made this version of a puller. Tightened, lubed and tightened and lubed. Next day drum was on the ground.

Thanks! That is a great tool. I will give this a shot in addition to removing the 2 bolts from the brake cylinder on the other side of the backing plate.

Thanks! I will try these in conjunction with the wheel puller device, let you guys know how it goes. Give me about a week or so, going to re-attempt next weekend.

Bobby

I sent you a PM. Check to see if you got it.

Hotrod Lincoln has a tip which is to grind off the center brake shoe hold down pins from the back side of the backing plate. this allows a whole lot of shoe movement which should allow you to get the drum off of the shoes.

Also a great trick to put in the brain vault. Thanks Carl and Hotrod Lincoln.

Thanks Chris. Will do, just been busy and haven't got to it yet. I'm on 17 down past Lowes.

On the really badly stuck ones, also disconnect the brake line and unbolt the wheel cylinder from the backing plate. Then the whole assembly, drum, shoes, wheel cylinder and all can be removed. The parking brake cable might be a little tricky, but it gives you room to work from inside the drum to free up rusty parts and/or apply penetrating oil.
Jerry

It worked!! Many thanks, I tried a couple things and tools, but ultimately it was the top Nut on the pivot bolt and the 2 bolts from the Brake Cylinder, all on the backing plate (opposite side of the drum) 1 down, 3 to go. Say, do you recommend any particular (off the shelf tool) for removal and installation of all the brake pad SPRINGS?

Those Harbor Freight spring piers are worse than useless- - - -they bend! Get a good pair from Snap-On, OTC, or one of the other professional tool suppliers.
Jerry

I use vice grips and my "big guns", Thunder and Lightning (they blush when I refer to them as such).
Carl

Before I had money to buy the real deal I used a pair of pliers and then a phillips head screw driver to put the springs back on.
(most people who have them don't know how to use them. The long tool is handy putting the horizontal springs on the old huck brake system...if you know how to use the tool.

...buy good ones as Jerry pointed out and save yourself some cuss words.

Happy to report All 4 brake sets including pads, brake cylinders, spring sets, etc.. are done! My sincere thanks.