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| | | Forums66 Topics128,026 Posts1,055,405 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 | I bought some great barn doors for my '50 burb. I really like them for my usage. Clamshells ended up being beyond repair. My problem is this. The barn doors came from a panel. I have two sets of stops but they are too long. Can I cut them down and fit them or do I need the shorter stops? Anyone cut them to fit? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Tony, I've never cut any, or know anyone who has..but that don't mean they haven't. Post in the Parts Wanted forum and keep and check e-bay. They come up fairly regular. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,215 Moderator | | Moderator Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,215 | Tony, try fastening a bolt through the opening in the stop. By sliding the bolt through the slot, you can adjust how far open the doors go. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 | Thanks Achipmunk. I'll post in Parts Wanted if no one has worked a pair of these. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 | I'll look at that one in the daylight. I think it will work but the arm being longer may not fit the indentation at the top of the door. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Tony, are you sure the door stops are 47-55?
I think that 47-55 Panel rear doors should be interchangeable with 47-55 Suburban with rear doors.
The Panel vs Suburban stops were different but the doors were, I think, the same.
Well, almost the same: at some time the light wiring contact/conduits changed, and some/all Suburbans came with stainless-steel trim around rear door windows (I am not sure if Panels had that SS trim). | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 | Thanks for the reply tclederman. I got one set with the doors loose and the other set I removed from a 47-53 panel in a MD junkyard. They are identical in length. But when the door is shut, the bracket doesn't fold into the recess/indentation at the top of each door and hits the top. That makes me think there must be a difference in length between panel and burb stops. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | OK, tonymus53. Maybe someone will have an answer,
Sorry about my questioning.
Maybe the stops have been bent? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,146 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,146 | Some/all Suburbans came with stainless-steel trim around rear door windows (I am not sure if Panels had that SS trim). The Deluxe Panel came with SS trim around rear barn door windows. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | On 55.2-59 (known as TF) Panels have different door checks than suburbans. Panels have a slotted check with rubber bumper which allows opening 3/4 or full, so as to load cargo. Suburbans have a two bar pivot check with no bumper which allows 3/4 only. I don't know about AD (47-55.1). I would imagine that if AD had two different checks, either should fit the door pocket. I would imagine the burb checks would be shorter than panel like they are on TF. If they don't fit a stock door they are probably wrong. You could have a pair from a Ford or a TF. They look almost the same. Whatever they are, if they are old, they are reasonably rare and I would NEVER modify them. I would figure out what they are and sell them and buy the correct ones.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | As posted above, A-D (47-55) Panel and Suburban rear door stops were different. The Suburban stops did not allow as close a back-up to a loading dock.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,249 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,249 | Some/all Suburbans came with stainless-steel trim around rear door windows (I am not sure if Panels had that SS trim). That is a negative on my '51 Suburban. It didn't come with trim around the rear window. | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | I think the stainless around the rear windows was '54-55.1 only. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,146 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,146 | I think the stainless around the rear windows was '54-55.1 only. For Suburban or both 54-55.1 Deluxe Panel trk and Suburban. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 | Thanks Bartamos. I won't cut anything. Let me do some more investigating on differences with the AD checks then. Maybe someone can send me a pic of their own checks if they have them on a burb. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 | Thanks Jorb. My checks look like those in the drawing. However, they don't show a different part # for panel and burb use? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 | Mark. I checked your gallery pics. You have a clear pic of checks for the AD burb. Now I see the difference and know what to look for! Thanks. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Thanks Jorb. My checks look like those in the drawing. However, they don't show a different part # for panel and burb use? Are you looking for the part numbers for the stops: Section 16.430 Note: 47-55st Panel and Suburban Rear/Back Doors are the same: Section 16.160 47-55st Panel and Suburban rear door stops should work on all 47-55st Panel and Suburban rear doors. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,249 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,249 | Mark. I checked your gallery pics. You have a clear pic of checks for the AD burb. Now I see the difference and know what to look for! Thanks. Your welcome! If you need more, let me know! | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 | Thanks Tim. I will check part numbers with what I have already. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,146 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,146 | This topic is interesting because I learned something. #1. 47-55 1st Panel and Suburban L/R rear back doors are the same. Group # 16.160 #2. There is a different Door Stop/Check for Panel and Suburban. Group 16.430.....47-55 1st Panel .....50-55 1st Suburban (I believe in 1950 rear back doors were offered for the AD Suburban) #3. 47-57 Panel rubber Bumper for the Stop/Check is listed under ..... Group # 16.437 Pin Door Check Link, .....47-57 BUMPER, rear door check, part # 371890 .....Only in the 1929- 1957 Chevrolet Master Parts & Accessories Catalog Additional pictures: 1954 shop manual Panel Bodies Page 1 Page 2 MNSmith, 1951 Chevy Suburban Door Stop/Check pictures Door Stop/Check 1 Door Stop/Check 2 It is interesting that they made two types of Door Stops/Checks for Panel and Suburban. I am not sure if the mounting holes are the same though. Thanks for the Education. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Did you see what year the panel doors' method of routing electrical leads to the rear lamp changed from metal-to-metal contacts (door-to-body) to a spring-like conduit through-which the leads/wires were run to the stop/brake/marker lamp?
I cannot find those parts in the MP&AC.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 | Thanks Jorb for the clarification and the good pics! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,215 Moderator | | Moderator Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,215 | Did you see what year the panel doors' method of routing electrical leads to the rear lamp changed from metal-to-metal contacts (door-to-body) to a spring-like conduit through-which the leads/wires were run to the stop/brake/marker lamp?
I cannot find those parts in the MP&AC. Interesting question Tim. I have the spring-like conduit on my '53. When Jim Carter saw it, he took a photograph, hadn't seen them before. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,146 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,146 | Did you see what year the panel doors' method of routing electrical leads to the rear lamp changed from metal-to-metal contacts (door-to-body) to a spring-like conduit through-which the leads/wires were run to the stop/brake/marker lamp? I cannot find those parts in the MP&AC. I found the metal-to-metal contacts in the 1929-1957 MP&AC. Group # 2.447 37-51 Switch Tail and Stop Lamp parts numbers 594904 and 594905 1952 was year, they went to spring-like conduit. I can't find the spring-like conduit in MP&AC though. It is in the FAM. Wire Assy. 5299935 sec.12, sheet 15.021 and 15.002 | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | As always, Thanks jorb
Good recommendation, bartamos | | |
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