The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Engine may be stuck ??

any good info on getting a engine unstuck? Already been putting oil in the cylinders and if it is stuck I do have a 454 I can get my hands on. I would like to keep the truck factory and original. Has anyone put or tried to put a different size engine in one. I'm just wondering if everything will marry up like bell housing and such.

I'm sure others will disagree, But my opinion is that any engine that doesn't turn freely with a spray of oil in the cylinders and not much force to rotate the crank, needs to be opened up.
Head off, pan off, evaluate the rust in the cylinders.
It is very easy to score and scratch the cylinder walls or brake pistons by forcing. A bit of patience, cleaning and care can save hundreds of $$.
Soaking with PT blaster and then tapping a piston down an inch with a wooden block and hammer (unless the lower cyl walls are just as rusty) lets you clean and hone the walls before moving the piston back up.
It can make the difference between - I got it running and I can evaluate the rest of the truck or Engine to the machine shop or replace as item 1.

I was in the same situation about 6 months ago. I had a gmc 248 that was stuck. I filled each cylinder with a 50/50 mix of kero and marvel mystery oil, let it sit for a month, then I used a screwdriver on the flywheel to turn it back and fouth. Unfortunately I couldn't get it to run do to low compression so I dismantled it. My low comp. was caused by broken piston rings in every cylinder. Good luck and P.S. if it runs I would think about inspecting everything so no further damage happens.

I agree with Mr. Sears. I tried Marvel.diesel,tranny fluid,and P.B. blaster,on a flathead "Studie" 245,but after trying to dislodge #5,(ONLY),for 2-years,I sold that truck,and now I have "Mo'Tater"! I wish I would've heard of "Kroil". I've heard nothing but GOOD about that stuff! Try Kroil,and follow Mr. Sears' aedvice! If you're able to drive the pistons down,(drop the pan,dis-connect the connecting rods),make sure to ream the ridge,at the top of the cylinder walls. Then you'll be able to clean and hone the cylinders,and drive the pistons up and out of the block. I never had the opportunity to drive an A.D. with a big block,but I'd think with the extra engine weight,it would be a BEAR to steer,at least at a standstill. You may have to change the location of the steering box,and radiator/motor/tranny mounts ,as well. I,myself, would opt for a full,(oil) pressure 235,or 261. Hope this helps.

Iceman4,

Your thread doesn't say what year truck and engine you're playing with...did I miss it somewhere?

Disregard this question, I found the answer in the next thread...1950 6400 with a babbet pounder...

Mike B

Had a 261 stuck. Kroil for a week, 1/2 diesel/transmission fluid for a week, marvel mystery oil for a week. STILL STUCK.

Pulled heads and found the cylinders slick and clean. Pulled the side cover and found 3 lifters stuck....mainly from condensation. Soaked with Kroil 3 days and they freed up.... and the motor turned.
Hope you have success with yours. It does take time and patience.

Thanks for the tip,Alvin! Another "Kroil" believer! How ya feelin?? Hope you're doing well!!

where would you exactly find the engine numbers do not see any on flat spot behind distributor 1950 6400

iceman4, it may not be the case in your situation but I have seen the numbers ground off on SOME engines. I know remanufacturer's grind off the engine numbers on later models (because I have one) but not sure if they did it back in the earlier years...... just to add another dimension to ones that may not have a number.

As Alvin decribed above, the Engine Serial Number was crudely ground off of my 1954 Suburban's 235 truck engine. I am lucky that truck was registered by the Vehicle Serial Number.

Hi a trick motorcycle engines is ,if there is a piston is on the way down ,you take a piece of thick steel I would say 1/2" for your motor cut it out so that you can drill 5 holes in it 4 for head bolts one the middle .The middle hole gets a nut welded to the under side (piston side) I'm thinking 5/8 ? Place a piece of the flat steel on top of the piston (same thickness as the plate if possible)put your bolt in and put some pressure on it .This would be done after it's soaked a while with some of the other ideas here .
Paul

Paul, the problem with doing that on a multi-cylinder engine is the distinct possibility of bending connecting rods on other cylinders where the pistons remain frozen. Ditto for the old "sandbag the trunk and tow the vehicle" method that some of my friends used to use. Something's going to bend or break!
Jerry

On my 'stuck' 235, once I had the Head off and had soaked the Pistons and Rings for a few days with 50/50 Acetone and ATF...

I used a short length of 2 x 4 and a three pound short handle Sledge Hammer, but only giving a smart "tap" to each Piston top...doing each one in turn till each had got ten or fifteen 'taps'.

I then went down under the Van, and using a stout, large size Screw Driver, I worked on the fly Wheel Teeth, levering them from the sides, levering them back-and-forth a tiny bit each way, gradually moving it a little more each way.

I also Power wire-brushed out all light Rust in the Cylinders I could get to.

Once I had it loose, I turned the Flywheel about half a revolution, Power wire Brushed the Bores some more, then repeated...then Oiled it all up well.


Then used the Starter to turn ot over a few dozen times.

This went very well and I do not think I hurt anything with this method.

It was my own fault the Engine had got stuck.

I had pulled the Head Bolts, in preperation of removing the Head, got inturrupted, and then it sat for three years, and of course some of the Water of the Cooling System leaked into the Cylinders.

I had drained the Cooling System, but, there was still enough Water in the Head or where-ever, to go seeping in to the Cylinder Bores, once the Head Bolts were out...and it was ugly alright!! Eeeeeesh...

I've unstuck about 5 motors with out ever taking them apart!
All were tractor motors but the truck will likely be easier becasue the hood covers the intake and the exhaust goes down unlike many tractors that just have rain dumped down the cylinders.
Take out the spark plugs fill the cylinder with oil or better yet PB blaster. Wait a couple months and take a pry bar to the rein gear on the fly wheel and will likely come loose!
Work it back and forth a little clock wise then a little counter clockwise till it turns all the way over. Helps if you can get another guy on the front with the hand crank too.