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I have YOM plates on my 1965 C20. I live in Massachusetts where we are not supposed to use plate protectors or re-paint plates. I am wondering if there is a product (like urethane) that is clear but will keep my steel plates from rusting.

Last edited by cletis; 03/12/2014 4:37 AM. Reason: Clarified title

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What about getting a local body shop to put some clear coat(s) on them?


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Try cruising the local flaps. Look at the clear coat you can get in a spray can. Seems if you can encapsulate it both sides you won't have to worry about rust. Look on the shelf with the high temp paints, I know they're there, I've used them and for the money you can't beat it.Larry


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I have used two products for this very purpose in the past.

Duplicolor Clearcoat is available at any auto parts store for about $7 per can. It is a lacquer finish. Good news is that it applies easy, is relatively inexpensive, dries quickly and unused product can be saved for future projects. Bad news is that it will not hold up to gasoline or other solvents even after being fully cured. I learned this the hard way when all the tedious work that I had done to restore a license plate was ruined with a small gas spill.

Now I use Spray Max 2K Clearcoat. I have used this on three plates that I have restored and love it. It is a two part clearcoat that comes in a rattle can with a special mixing valve. Here is a link to the product on Eastwood--

http://www.eastwood.com/spray-max-2k-high-gloss-clearcoat-aerosol.html

I buy it at my local NAPA paint store for $20 per can. Expensive, but bullet proof. This gives you the same finish and durability of professional two part clear in a small quantity that does not require all the work to mix then clean your spray gun. The spray pattern that comes out of the can is similar to what you would get out of a gun, not a traditional rattle can.

Once you mix the two parts together, working time is limited. You can extend this by a couple of days by storing the mixed product in your refrigerator.

Good luck,

Maybellene

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Originally Posted by Cape65C20
I have YOM plates on my 1965 C20. I live in Massachusetts where we are not supposed to use plate protectors or re-paint plates. I am wondering if there is a product (like urethane) that is clear but will keep my steel plates from rusting.
How would they know if you repainted them? There are folks who can do a remarkably accurate restoration.


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Thanks to all of you for your advice. I will do what you all suggest with clearcoat. I will attempt it myself. I had YOM plates on my 1966 Mustang. When they rusted I repainted them myself (forget I said that!) but they didn't look very good. As Carl suggested I should have gone to a professional to have them restored. Rob

Last edited by Cape65C20; 03/13/2014 1:20 AM.

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Cape,
Here are a couple links for the your YOM plates. Hope this helps.

Massachusetts have crummy restrictions for your YOM plates. Don't give up and keep trying. I am interested in the final outcome; keep us posted.

Houseofjoy , Turnerplates

Bread
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There is also a tech tip here on the bolt about restoring old plates. I'm working on 3 sets right now. So far so good.


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Thank you Bread and Achip. I really appreciate the leads and will definitely look into them. Regards, Rob


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Originally Posted by 52Carl
How would they know if you repainted them? There are folks who can do a remarkably accurate restoration.

Here in FL you have to send them to the state to have them authenticated before they will issue the registration to go with the plate. If it's been touched up at all they are rejected. Once authenticated you are not supposed to refinish them, but its an honor system. ohwell


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What jointsmith describes for FL is also the case in NY; except, NY allows you to submit a photo of your original plate.

The same honor system applies - my NY 1954 Suburban plate/tag cleaned up real nicely after it was registered.

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Cape,
I had some trouble getting my plates registered but in the end it was registered, because I did my homework. I had been talking with a clerk from the DMV and built a good rapport with him. We worked together in understanding the state code on antique, classic, custom, and YOM registration of the plates. In the end, he learned something and I got my plates registered. Photobucket

Here are a few more links from your state about the difference plate registration. It seems that you can not restore or fix your plates or it will be denied registration.

Bread
.

MASSDOT Passenger Plates Booklet January 2014 , App for YOM , 540 CMR: REGISTRY OF MOTOR VEHICLES / 2.07: Year of Manufacture Registration Plates

"The plate must be in good repair and in original condition. Its letters, numbers and markings must be clearly legible. Any indication that the plate has been repainted or otherwise altered will cause the Registrar to reject use of the plate."



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....and on the other hand I read recently a bolter HAD to clean his up and paint it to where it was "negligible" but can't remember who, or what state that was.
.....and like always. Its best to check with your states DOT.


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Sounds like FL law and MA law are about the same. It wouldn't matter if the old steel plates weren't so prone to rust.


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I already have my truck registered with the YOM plates. They did "pass muster" but I would just like to prevent any additional rusting. The salty Cape Cod air does a number on metal if you're not careful. The clearcoat seems to be the way to go since I won't be "altering" the plates in any way, just "preserving" them.


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Rob,
Sorry for misunderstanding, I thought that you had wanted to get your plates refurbished.

Preventive measures pay in the log run.

Glad to hear you are running your old plates.

Bread
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Just a quick note. Be sure to use a prep product such as "Pre" to get good adhesion before shooting your clear coat--just in case you have any type of foreign substance on the plate.


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Thanks for the advice 56. I will do that.
Bread - no problem. I would refurbish the plates but I probably don't need to. Thank you.


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Here is the California State requirements.

https://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/reg_hdbk/ch21/ch21_36.htm

72 and prior Commercial plates and 69 and earlier passenger cars only.

Don't forget your year model vehicle tag to go with the plate or DMV will send you away!

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Amazing how the laws change from state to state!


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For my Utah plates 1950 vintage these were the requirements:
Had to have a pair.
Number had to be unused.
Had to be original colors.
Then if you met that it had to have a basic safety inspection. Wipers, horn, signals, lights, etc.
if you elected Horseless Carriage plates, none of this applied not even the safety inspection since it was limited use.

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Wow! Always something different.


1965 Chevy C20 Stepside

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