All the parts are brandnew. The PO had just done the change to 12v. I think he thought that if you run the alternator's entire output through the ballast resistor that the truck would basically still run at 6v. but, I think the problem with that is that the battery is trying to charge at 6v. So, really pretty hard to figure out something is wrong because it takes weeks of use to run the battery down enough to notice a difference. And ofcourse the first thing I did was buy a new battery which delayed things even more.
So far I have been told my alternator is supposed to have 3 connections and not two. I have been told I should have a DA plug which I don't. And there should be a wire that goes from the alternator to the battery.
Apparently I do have some kind of direct line to the battery through the switch because the wire to the alternator has juice on it without the key being on. BUT, and this is the big BUT, this line runs through the ballast resistor and I guess is also reduced to 6v.
So, maybe the wiring isn't that bad. Maybe he just put the ballast resistor in the wrong place? He put it in between the alternator and the key, thinking this way he wouldn't have to change any bulbs and stuff.
What if I take the ballast resistor out of the line between the alternator and the key and install it in between the key and the coil (or is it the distributor?). If I do this after changing all the bulb etc, because my dash wires would now have 12v, the whole truck would be on 12 v except for the points?
