Doing a search will find lots of pictures with arrows pointing to the locations on blocks for oil connections but I will attempt to explain them. On the drivers (left) side of the block look for a bulge that runs the entire length about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom. If you feel around the corner there will be flush pipe plugs in the front and back of the block. The bulge contains the main oil galley and is where all the pressurized oil goes upon exiting the pump. Look along the top of the bulge for a boss with an NPT thread in it nearer the back of the block. This is the pressure output for the gauge as well as a bypass filter by means of a T fitting. If the oil from here is not restricted it will take the path of least resistance and head for the filter rather than the bearings and lead to damage in a hurry. As for the oil return from the filter this is easy to identify as it is simply a hole thru the block (with an NPT thread on the outside of course) closer to the front and lower down to allow oil to drain back and if the pan is off you should see the hole on the inside. No drilling or tapping of the block is required to install a bypass filter as pipe plugs will be present in the locations identified above.
In previous discussions it was agreed upon that if the oil must go through a 1/16” hole or orifice sufficient backpressure will be present to adequately lubricate internal parts with an average consequence of 5 pounds of pressure loss due to a percentage of the oil going for filtering and not to the bearings. In summary as long as somewhere in the filter plumbing the passage size drops to 1/16” ( by drilling a pipe plug, carb jet, fitting, etc) you can use any remote mount with any filter you desire.
