Dragsix, that is as clear an explanation as I have ever heard. Thank you for taking the time to write it and post it. It makes sense now but at first I thought that such a small orifice would hinder flow, starve the engine's vitals and put strain on the oil pump. Hotrod Lincoln, your points in favor of canisters make complete sense, but I have tried to figure out a place to reinstall my canister filter and I'm coming up empty. Like Dragsix, I went with a dual carb setup on an Offenhauser manifold. I also couldn't afford any disc brake conversion, but I did manage to eke out enough dough for a boosted master cylinder that enhances the drums' performance. It sticks way out from the firewall, further limiting available space. I have no way to post pictures or I'd show you how tight it is on the driver's side of engine bay.
My 235 has only 61,000 original miles and when I had the pan down, the cylinder walls are almost mirror like, no discernible wear anywhere. I think no filter, the use of a high-quality, high zinc and phosphorus oil (Brad Penn for example) and very regular oil changes might be the way to go. Also, I am curious about what happens to the flow of oil at the inlet and outlet ports if no filter is set up. Could either or both of these ports be used as access points for an oil temp or oil pressure sensor? Lastly, if I do go spin-on, could you point me in the right direction to get suitable 1/16" fittings?
I am truly grateful for all the help and advice. You are all good, generous people and I'm honored to be part of the Stovebolt community.
GW
