I don't think so Dave, the little bit about the MMO lead me to do the other research in to oil/fuel additives, I would guess as the article states, that they are all pretty similar. I doubt if the chemistry was any better in 1923 when they came up with the formula for MMO, than it is today. So I'd bet it's not much more of a mystery than the stuff the others are pushing.
I have been and still am a believer that today the major oil companies have the best handle on the formulation of their products and adding to the mix isn’t going to benefit the performance of our engines.
Vern, yepper, starts like SAE #10 or #5 or now #0 and thickens to #30 or #40. I’ve read and re-read the shop and owners manuals many times for the Stovebolt engines and all the recommendations are for #20 oil. If it’s real, real hot, i.e., desert #30 and real, real cold,i.e., Northwest Territory, #10, that’s pretty simple. Today with the milti-viscosity oils I’m sure we could use a 10w 20 or the new 0w 20 oils as long as the engines are in good shape. I really don’t think you are gonna see a bit of difference running a 0w 30, 5w 30 or 10w30 oil in the Stovebolt either.
I just had my 216 rebuilt and when I get it back together and broke in, I’m gonna start using the new Mobil 1 0w 20. For my break in I’m going to use a straight #10 for the first 500 miles or so. The oils are still formulated with 800ppm ZDDP and that offers adequate protection for our low performance Stovebolts.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL
Last edited by Denny Graham; 11/04/2010 5:27 PM.
