Have been in the restoration business for many years so have learned a few ins and outs of title problems. First, GET A POWER OF ATTORNEY from the old gentleman so he doesn't have to do any running around and heaven forbid, he passes, you are free of another quagmire. Explain this POA is for the vehicles only, not any of his other possessions. Alabama used to issue a title on a bill of sale only if the vehicle was over 15 or so years old. Some other states have gotten antsy about Alabama titles. A bit pricey ($300) but very good is Tuesdee Knight's Auto Titles in Gun Barrel City, Texas Ph 903 887 2285. Her card reads 99.9 percent success. A bonded title will have the same VIN problem as the state but call and discuss the situation and check on a total/partial refund if they can't help. As a last resort you CAN get a title from Texas but it will list both trucks as 2010 assembled motor vehicles. I've only had to do this on a 1938 LaSalle and a 1934 Auburn. Nothing was said about either having to have all the clean air equipment. It's a ten step process: 1.Notorized Bill of Sale for motor (I know it's engine)
2.Notorized Bill of Sale for frame
3.Notorized Bill of sale for body
4.Pencil tracing of body and motor# if applicable(it's not)
5.Certified weight certificate
6.Form 61-A Application for registration of rebuilt motor vehicle
7.Form 30 Application for Texas Title
8.Photograph of vehicle
9.Form 68-A Police Officer verification (see below)
10.Standard of safety affidavit
They issue you a number to attach to the vehicle and the police officer verifies it is attached. I explain that his signature means ONLY that the number is correct and not whether there is any legal problem since they are rightfully concerned about signing a form they may have never seen before. This is also printed on the form. Friends can "sell" you the engine/body/frame and go to a Notary with you. All of this could be done from Ohio with one glitch---the safety inspection form.
