Things to contemplate:
1. A volt meter needle pegs to full CCW when off and hovers to middle when operating. A ammeter is at middle when off and slightly CW when operating. If the face is still original ammeter markings, it's still readable as a volt meter.
2. Be sure the converted ammeter can handle 12V as a volt meter.
3. An ammeter is placed in series and a volt meter is placed in parallel. So two thing happening: Resistor to convert and wired like a voltmeter, which is normally one terminal gets 12V and other terminal goes to ground.
4. I'm not sure about your readings. Showing 1-2 as the lowest reading and others at 100 and 200 ohms (I guess I expected 1-2 to be the highest). You are showing 3 grounded and 5 grounded. Trying to figure that out. Where was the black meter probe place when checking ground? What was the mode setting on the meter and what range?
5. You characterize your build as a restomod. Maybe just leave ammeter unwired and add a volt meter in a discrete location or since you have an alternator, add an indicator/idiot light somewhere and call it good. These are not critical gauges needed with a new harness, 12V conversion and alternator, restomod. This goofy unknown ammeter is holding up the work.
Please advise exactly where the words "IN" and "OUT" are located. Pic or two.
I suggest you do the readings Kevin asked for in buzz mode, no numbers. Continuity buzz mode. Everything connected.
Last edited by bartamos; 01/23/2025 7:13 PM. Reason: clarification
