1. I have no idea what this means "Also I have all threads on the bolts, not a non threaded shaft?" or if it is a question.
2. Engine stands are made to accomodate every possible bolt pattern for at least 4 bolts.
3. Did bolts come with the stand?
4. If by slanted, you mean rotated, just rotate the stand barrel to level motor.
5. There is nothing on our trucks or on a motor stand that would ever need grade 8. Folks say grade 8 because someone else says grade who heard someone else say grade 8. Grade 8 is exrtreme overkill and expensive. Just have it in your mind that grade 5 is all you will ever need. The math supports this.
This is commentary, not aimed at anyone.
Lots of folk ask about sizes of bolts to use in varioius places. All who work on mechanical things need to get familiar with size and pitch. Hardware is pretty simple. Asking others to size something is not necessary. Several methods to use are:
1. Measure the bolt OD with calipers you need to buy.
2. Measure the thread pitch with a pitch gauge that comes with your tap and die set which you also need to buy.
3. For length it's just a matter of the "stack up"of parts and washers plus the depth of blind hole or the nut thickness + stickout.
4. You can find a bolt that screws into the threads and take that test bolt to the hardware store. Same for a nut.
5. Carbon steel Bolts are marked with radial hash marks, add 2 to the number to get grade. A grade 5 has three hash marks. A grade 8 has six.
6. Don't use stainless steel bolts/nuts/washer.
7. Use stainless steel trim screws.
Everybody needs to get reasonably familiar with hardware. You will get good at it quickly. You can't ask the internet on every bolt and screw.
As far as torque. After a while (20+ years
) you will know how tight is tight. Except for some critical things. You just get a feel. Small hardware is the most dangerous. You keep your hand close to the fastener end of wrench on those.
