Good catch at this stage!
I suggest that you make sure the flywheel is orientated properly (with respect to the crankshaft) before you take it off. There is no 'pin' that orients the flywheel correctly to the crankshaft. You want to make sure the timing marks are in the proper place. The flywheel can bolt on in six different positions.
Turn the engine via the hand crank until you have cylinder one at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke. Watch the valves to determine when that cylinder is on the compression stroke. You can stick a wood dowel in the spark plug hole to feel when the piston reaches its top position.
When cylinder one is at TDC, check to see that the U|C mark on the flywheel is showing in the inspection window in the cast iron flywheel housing. There should be a pointer in the middle of the window.
If the U|C mark is at the needle, the flywheel is in the correct position. ;-) If this is the case, make some punch marks on the end of the crankshaft and on the flywheel so when you take it off, you know where to line up those marks when you put it back.
If the U|C is not in the window, you can paint a line on the flywheel and then disregard the casting mark or take the flywheel off and move it around until it is oriented correctly.
Here's a link to where I described mounting the flywheel during Lurch's engine rebuild:
https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/392749/re-resurrecting-a-28-4-banger.html#Post392749For anyone who wants to read the whole adventure of the engine rebuild, here's a link to the beginning of it:
Resurrecting a 1928 Chevy four bangerCheers, Dean
