I've been on this Stovebolt site since 1999, and I have yet to see any brake kits mentioned that work with stock wheels without some creative work. So I am going to say NO, there is no kit available for what you are asking.
My truck is a '37, it's had the same basic frame and drivetrain as your, and very close to the same weight. Mine was modified back in the late '60s. I added disk brakes so the wheel bolt patterns matched. The truck wasn't drivable when I purchased it out of the fence row back in '99. I run a 1970 250 engine and T-350 automatic transmission, so my weight bias is likely shifted some from a stock truck.
I can tell you the pedal effort is quite high with manual disk brakes. I am using an aftermarket brake lever with the correct manual brake ratio, Ford dual resivoir master cylinder, GM single piston ( '70 - '79 ) calipers and rotors, and GM '70 - '79 Camaro / Firebird rear drums. The braking system is a basically a Firebird with different master cylinder. Kit was from Master Power Brakes.
The truck stops just fine, I have an adjustable regulator on the rear brake line to limit pressure to the drums, without the regulator the rear brakes locked up very easy. It drives well, doesn't dart around on hard stops, and has zero brake fade. But the pedal effort is high, it takes a strong leg to quickly stop. A power booster would cure that, but I have lived with it for 23 years now and see no reason to change. I drove drum brake cars for years, even drag raced with them, and like mentioned above, the only difference you will tell is fading of the drum brakes with repeated heavy use and little cool down time. As drums heat up they expand, the system can't keep up with the expansion, so the brakes feel weak. Disk don't expand the same as drums.
I will say this, with the old style adjustable tie-rod ends and draglink ends, the truck would dart to one side as it took up slack in all the joints. They were in really good shape, all rebuilt with new balls and sockets. They are suppose to have some slack to take the road vibrations out of the steering wheel. When I switched to the modern type of joints the darting around went away. You also need a very good steering box with no play, mine is a 1941 I rebuild with mostly NOS parts, so it was basically new when I installed it. I drove for years with a NOS '37 steering box, they are gear on gear type boxes. The '41 gear box uses roller balls for less effort and has a slower gear ratio for even less effort at slow speeds.
I have never driven an old truck with drum brakes so I can't say one is better then the other, but as it is now, the wheels will lock up pretty easy, so I have plenty of brake horse power, far more than needed. In your case with stock skinny tires and wheels, lock up will be more of a problem. I have 205/75R15 front, 235/75R15 rear modern soft radial tires with plenty of meat on the ground, and a 50/50 weight split front to rear, that's around 1700 lbs on each axle. I have had the truck on a four wheels scale system. I have a front sway bar, all new springs, and modern gas shocks, and the most important thing, 3 point seat belts.
If you want it look stock, keep it that way. Make sure the parts you have are in great shape, with the best brake shoe material you can find. There are a few venders who sell the better linings, I've seen them mentioned on numerous site I watch, and everyone raves about how good it works over the one size fits all material being sold over the counter. Better linings and good drums should be all you need for a good brake system.
Hope this helps,
Joe
