The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay What kind of altenator do i need?

I will try to answer some questions as it's already 1 o'clock here in the Netherlands and I can't get to the truck now. Will try to answer the other questions tommorow when i can check.

1. Does your word "annmeter" mean multimeter or voltmeter? If it means ammeter/amp meter, it is the wrong meter.
Yeah i mean a multimeter just didn't translate it correctly . As you probably guessed i'm not from the states so English is not my native language, just trying my best!

2. I see a component called "regulator" with only one wire going to it. What is that
That's the regulator you mentioned i shouldn't use But I didn't know where I needed to put that cable so i just left it there. The cable itself goes back to the "big connection point"(see wiring diagram). Do i need to connect that cable somewhere else? or can I remove it completely (maybe i can use it to connect the #2 terminal on the altenator to the "big connection point" for a better working system as Bill mentioned.

3. The alternator is not labeled. If the red and purple wire are on the same terminal, it looks correct.
Sorry forgot to do that yes it's the altenator.

4. I do not see a ballast resistor, so does coil say internally resisted?
Honestly I don't know. For as far i know there is text on it that says that it's internally resisted. I also don't know if it's the original coil or a replacement as the previous owner painted it the same colour as the engine. Is there some way i can check if it's internally resisted or original (i know that there is a code on it). And can you please explain (if needed) where the ballast resistor goes and what it does?

5. Does "electricity gauge" mean ammeter gauge?
yes it does (it's on the left gauge cluster and then on the top right). Again sorry for my translation

6. Clarify this comment you said..."for the regulator, electricity gauge (meter on the clock wich shows if the battery is dead or charged) and the light switch. THERE IS NO REGULATOR ANY MORE. NO REGULATOR. NONE. It is inside the alternator now. So what is the item you are calling "regulator" on the the diagram????
as I already said, i didn't know where to put it or if the cable should be completely removed. I just left it there

What is meter on clock? The ammeter? Are you calling it "meter on clock" and then calling it "electricity gauge" also???
The ammeter gauge.

7. DO NOT look at youtube videos for this.
I'm 20 so I grew up with youtube. I know that the video's are not always right, but sometimes I can better understand something when I see it myself in a video.

8. Is the belt on the alternator and is the alternator pulley turning?
Yes belt is on the altenator and the altenator pulley turns.

It seems you are saying the battery reads 11V with motor running or not. So that means battery is bad and you need to replace it, or it means you have the alternator wired wrong and it is not wired per your diagram like you think it is. It is hard to believe you have two bad alternators.
All the battery's we place in the truck go dead at some point because it doesn't charge. We have an battery cutoff switch so the battery doesn't drain overnight. Sometimes my dad forgets to switch the battery off so it goes flat. When we tried the altenator (with engine running) we had the battery charged overnight. I guess the battery is at the moment flat, can try to charge it up tommorow or replace it with a good one and see what the voltage is. Need to check tomorrow.

I WILL REPEAT WHAT I SAID IN PREVIOUS POST>
Make sure your drawings show what you actually did NOT what you were supposed to do. Can you post pics of the alternator and it's wiring? So we can check you.
I don't really understand what you want me to do. Do you want me to show what I did (as that's the current wiring diagram) or how it was back when we changed some cables? please explain

Keep in mind that if your battery is bad, you may not know it and that is really what your problem is. battery should read about 12.6 at rest and should show about 14V when motor running. With two alternators tried by you, it seems like it is the battery, cable connections, loss of ground or alternator wired wrong.
will change the battery tomorrow.

The alternator case must be grounded. This is accomplished by the alternator case being bolted to brackets on the motor. The battery negative cable is bolted to the motor to complete the path back to battery.. There can be no paint, corrosion, rubber or loose bolts at these location which would interupt the ground path.
The altenator case is bolted to a bracked on the motor. I don't know if the battery negative cable is bolted to the motor (will check tomorrow).

sorry if it looks like you're talking to a dead mouse. I try to understand everything and do everything you say, but as you probably already guessed I don't have a lot of experience with wiring and cables. I'm just a 20 year old student business administration who tries to restore some parts of the truck by myself and wants to understand how everything works