anyway i made some progress again today. Made a wiring diagram of the car itself. It's not complete but with the things you probably want to know (for anyone wondering how i made it, i use the site Lucidchart. Normally i use it to make proces charts for my study but you can use it to make wiring diagrams). Hopefully you can understand how it's wired and what the problem is.

To answer your questions Bartamos:

1. Is the "ignition light" just to see the key? or is it related to alternator?

The ignition light is to see if the ignition is on. When you turn the key to the right the light goes on, and when you turn it to the left it goes off (a little bit like the beep you get when you leave your ignition on in a modern car). It's so we don't accidentally leave the the ignition on. It's wired with one wire to a little light on a bracket. It has nothing to do with the altenator.

2. Please clarify the last one to the right, can not understand what it is. Print your words more carefully. Be careful due to language differences.
It's the point where the different cables connect. Bill called it the "common voltage distribution point", I call it a "cable connection point" myself. In the wiring diagram you can see that there are 2 different "connetion points" one for the interior lights, and one "big one" (i call it like that because the cables I put in it are a lot bigger) for the regulator, electricity gauge (meter on the clock wich shows if the battery is dead or charged) and the light switch.

3. Have you connected the alternator per our instructions?

I connected it as I had previously drawn and what I saw on youtube video's.

4. You say battery shows 11V. How are you testing that? Where are your meter probes touching? Is motor running during test?
We tested it by putting a annmeter on the + and - of the battery (and measuring with DC 20V on the annmeter). We test it when the engine is running.

5. NEW TEST. Motor running...Meter positive probe on big stud on alternator. Meter negative probe on battery negative post. Report reading. We are trying to get the output of the alternator NOT the battery
Haven't tested that yet, my dad had no time and I don't know if i'm doing it right when i'm doing it alone. We tried to test the altenator itself by putting the annmeter on the BAT point and the casing of the altenator itself (and on other ground points like the engine and the chassis)

6. ALSO: test battery at rest with motor NOT running. Meter across battery posts. Don't touch the cable clamps, just touch the posts.
Just did that, and it gives me the 11 volts. I know that the battery could be dead, but I expect atleast an increase in the voltage when the altenator works.

hopefully i answered your questions clearly. if not, please let me know smile
Hopefully you (or someone else) can find the problem.
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1951 Chevy 1300
"Selling trees in the Netherlands"
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