I don’t know if I’m doing it correctly. I have the multimeter set to 2000k on the ohms, With the key off, only 1 terminal makes the multimeter go to 000 from 1 on the screen. All 3 terminals do that when red and black lead touch the same terminal. Example with the black lead from multimeter touching terminal A and red lead touch terminal A it goes to 000 from 1 on the screen. From A to B terminal nothing, from A to C nothing. With the key “0n” they all go to 000 from 1 on the screen
I found this doing a google search: it’s the same ignition switch
The Ignition Switch is what you use to connect Switched power. The only time switched power allows an accessory to be provided with electrical energy is when the ignition key is turned on. Ammeter Negative is the connection to the starter/battery directly. The one labeled Fuel Gauge is your switched terminal. So, anything that you require to be switched, you must stack on to that one terminal. This is generally not a problem since there are a limited number of accessories to begin with. If this becomes a problem you can always add a fuse/terminal block. It would not be hard to do, but most people do not find it necessary.
And this...
The three terminals on 47-54 truck ignition switch are -- > Ignition (Coil & Fuel Gauge) > Power Source (Ammeter) > Accessory Terminal (Empty, switched with ignition key)
I have the terminals connected like this on my "stomp starter" '54 3100 with the ignition switch installed in the dash and looking at it from the driver's seat:
> Left terminal: Coil and Fuel Gauge > Bottom terminal: Ammeter > Right terminal: Heater blower and Cigarette lighter - so that it will switch off anything plugged into the lighter when the switch is turned off. Cig lighter was probably not switched originally)
