These Hot Rod universal harnesses are not really designed for our AD trucks. They try to cover ammeters and foot starts and 12V conversion and generators and voltage regulators. When installing one of these it's a little hard, especially for a person who has not done it. We have to try and follow the harness instructions and at the same time accommodate the older system requirements I just mentioned. So here, in this thread, we are doing that for two guys at once, asking about these older system requirements. Trying to follow the instructions. It's very hard to explain when I don't have the instructions, the diagrams and the schematics that you have so we can talk the same language that is used in the harness instructions. So I can see what they say and re-interpret them for you and add what is needed/not needed for older systems. All the while factoring in any modern changes the poster has made.
One person has supplied that info. One has not. So, I'll wait. I have asked very politely already and have been ignored. Post number 1351310
If for some reason they can not be supplied I will do my best to answer generically. (no guarantees)
Mr./Mrs. 400case: The ignition start and run is wired as I described above. 1351480. I will assume the wire "that goes to the coil" is a harness wire that actually comes from the ignition "ON", but is not apparent because it's in a bundle. That is the wire that goes to one side of the ballast resistor. Install a wire from the other side of ballast to the coil positive. Secondly, I assume the "wire that goes to the starter" is intended for an electromagnetic solenoid, which you do not have. So that wire is unused. Then there is only one other thing to do, install a wire from side terminal to coil positive.
Explanation of the Ballast/side terminal wiring, known as the bypass resistor system.
The wire thru the ballast resistor powers the coil/points during normal driving. It reduces the 12V to about 9V to save the points, make them last a long time. 12V is too much. So turn the ignition to ON and coil gets 9V. However, during starting the starter steals a lot of voltage/huge amp draw and starves the points that are already only 9V. Sooooooooo when you push the foot button the huge stud connects the battery to the starter motor and it spins. At the same time the side terminal is energized and a direct wire to the coil "bypasses" the ballast resistor to give the coil a better voltage. When you lift your foot, the side terminal disconnects. This idea is also used on a electromagnetic starter solenoid. This is the "R" terminal. It's exactly like the side terminal.
When I or anyone says bypass resistor. It's a tricky word. The resistor itself is being bypassed, but on the other hand, it is "bypassing" 12V battery voltage.
