When you mention these things - probably one month ago it did a similar thing. I walked away, 15 minutes later I came back and tried again and it started up. Several weeks ago, I brought it to the mechanic to look at the faulty gas gauge. He claimed to fix it but I didn't notice the gauge moving (always full). Since then I drove it once and it ran fine. I suppose he could have caused the problem.
In terms of fixing the ignition switch I replaced it with a new one from NAPA. Oddly the old one only had 4 male spades while the harness had 5 female plugs. The new ignition has 5 male spades so now everyone has a home. After replacing this, still the same problem.
I can't find my test light at the moment, I apologize. I went out there and wiped it off and found that there are two plugged into the positive. I'm going to try again tomorrow when it's brighter outside but test results were as follows:
NO reading when key was in OFF position.
It was hard to get a reading when in ON this time. When It seemed like I got a good ground (to the frame near the motor) it read a solid 12.12 for a bit but mostly it was bouncing around seemingly due to how strong my connections were. Usually reading low numbers between 2-8 volts - sometimes less.
Yes, motor fires and will run endlessly if I keep the ignition on start especially when giving a bit of gas but when letting go of the key it dies.
The ohms vs volts was a mistake not how I actually tested it. I was testing 20v on DC.
I mean't to say "harness or ignition" referring to the fact that I already replaced the ignition switch.
Thanks for your detailed help
