When you did the test for 12V by touching the coil positive terminal with key "On", and did not get voltage. Obviously that tells you that you are not getting voltage to the coil. This is your only problem. You have no other problem. You don't have a ground problem. Your problem is very simple. You need voltage when ignition switch is at the "ON" position.
SO............start testing for voltage, with switch "ON", follow the wire at the coil positive and follow the wiring step by step, connector by connector, terminal by terminal, wherever it leads, all the way to the ignition switch until you find 12V. Report. One of the two wires will go to the starter, follow the other wire. The long waits between reports is making this last WAY TOO LONG. You are bouncing all over the place and blogging a lot of non info. DO the test I just gave and find out why the ignition switch is not providing voltage.
A section of the path between the ignition switch and coil positive is a resistance wire. Other sections will be regular wire probably.
A battery hot wire comes to the ignition switch and the ignition switch distributes that voltage to various places. (start, run, gauges, accessories)There may be a fuse panel and fuses involved and there may not. Just follow the wire backwards to the switch and see if the terminal on the switch for "ON" is live or not when switch at "ON". This, as I said long ago, is VERY simple. The testing of the wire from coil to distributor is an example of you going off on your own and proved nothing. STOP taking things apart. STOP disconnecting wires. If you want help, follow instructions. As Hot Rod Jerry says......"we don't guess, we test".
With all due respect, you asked because you don't know what you are doing, so stop doing what you don't know. The Cavalry has arrived.
I still don't see cleaned wires and how they are attached to coil and where they go. I know where they are supposed to go. I have a GMC and have wired it.
