The resistance wire has to be a certain length. It's so long that they bent it back on itself to fit in the harness. Don't know what is wrong with it but one thing for sure. if your tests are accurate, it's history. You can't feasibly replace it. A resisted coil is as bad an idea as the resistance wire was. Having a resistor in the bottom of a hot coil is no good. Heat causes resistance. A remote, ceramic insulated resistor is best....... used with an externally resisted coil. HEI is better than all that but a bit of a pain to do on a GMC 305 V6.
Disconnect connector on firewall. See video below for Packard 56 contact removal. Use a tiny screw driver to release the resistance wire's terminal inside the connector. It should be a male. Take other end off the coil. Leave resistance wire in the harness if you want. Both ends disconnected. (at connector and at coil)
Then do this and all your wildest dreams will come true:
1. Buy a ballast resistor and mount it on the firewall or inner fender. Build two wires. (14 ga). One with a male Packard 56 crimped on one end and a ring tongue terminal crimped on the other. Snap male into connector (where resistance wire was) and attach other end to ballast. Second wire has crimped ring tongue terminals on both ends. Goes from other side of ballast to coil positive.. No more fork tongue terminals!!
Most of the time the male tang does not have bottom access as shown in the
video. So you come in from the front like the female removal. The male has a different retention tang than the female, as you can see.
2. Plug connector back in.
3. A new coil is recommended also.
4. Start truck and drive to bar.
