Distributor,
The points were pretty tight so I loosened them to about 0.019" gap which is within the range suggested by the shop manual.
Under the cap the rotor button had rubbed on one of the spark plug terminals and left some brass dust on the inside of the cap, washed that off to help prevent misfires.
Timing,
At first used the timing light to set the timing pointer not at the ball but perhaps 3/4" to the right of the ball; more advanced. Followed by a test drive up a steep hill across from the house listening for a ping or ignition knock. This setting seemed a little off, I forget which way but just not quite right...
Then I decided to try adjusting timing by ear listening for the most engine RPM at idle as this method had served me well in the past. I think it ended up with a little more advance than previously and after a test drive seemed to do OK, I'll leave it there for now.
I think the by ear and by test driving is better plan than the light until you figure out what works well. Then use the light to check and see what it is and put some paint on the flywheel so you can repeat that setting with the light. Remember that adjusting the points can change timing, so recheck/adjust after replacing them.
The ignition wires look OK but I should change the spark plugs before long, pulled one and it, although not eroded, had some carbon and stuff I assume more from running out of tune than from anything else. I may try to sand blast them but replacement might be simpler, I don't have a dedicated plug blasting/cleaning thing.
In fact before bringing this truck home I had been doing my best to do away with spark ignited engines and I'd consciously avoided purchasing tools specific to such engines. This had me asking for and borrowing a timing light last week too...
Next post on cab mounts,
Grigg
